For years I’ve heard people like Alton Brown encourage the use of whole nutmeg that you grate yourself in your cooking and baking, but I haven’t ever had the opportunity to try it. Until now. Lucy wanted nutmeg for the bechamel (white) sauce she makes for her lasagna and that’s the only way to buy it here — bags of glossy dark chocolate covered almond looking things that smell faintly of nutmeg.
We brought them home and Lucy used some in the lasagna and it was wonderful — a little extra nuttiness that was perfect with the sauce. A few days later I wanted to try these magical nutmegs for myself so I decide to make molasses cookies. I pull the nutmeg out, get out the box grater and get to work. I scrape and scrape and scrape the nutmeg against the box grater, but hardly anything comes out. The surface is hard, like a walnut, and even the side of the grater with the crazy sticky-outie prongs that will tear your knuckles to bits in a flash didn’t make a dent in the side of this nutmeg.
Lucy told me that she used one and a half nutmegs in the lasagna recipe and I couldn’t fathom how strong she must be to grate that much. I pressed a little harder and started seeing a few flakes at the bottom of the plate. I increased the speed of the passes and was making a little progress when it slipped out of my hand. I picked it up off the counter and immediately burned my thumb — the place that I had been rubbing against the grater had gotten so hot from the friction that it seared my thumb. Seriously. It hurt. Now I know how to start a fire if I ever go on Survivor. Sneak a few nutmegs past Jeff Probst and I’ll be the hero of my tribe.
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the offending spot that burned my finger |
So I inspect it and the nutmeg still looks practically untouched. I smell the few grains of powder that I manged to get so far and it smells nutmegish — sort of like the stuff you buy at the store. Really? For all that work and a burned thumb? Since I didn’t have any other options and I really wanted the molasses cookies, I refused to give up. I gripped it a little harder between my thumb and forefinger and pressed harder against the metal and scraped. Little bits started flaking off and then I heard a crack! and a few little sharp pieces broke off and fell onto the plate.
I picked up one of the larger pieces and tasted it — hmm, it’s like biting down on a piece of gravel and it didn’t taste like much of anything. How am I supposed to get this nutmeg grated so no one breaks their teeth on my cookies? And then I look at the nutmeg left in my hand and realized that I have cracked through an outer shell and there is a smaller nut inside. I wonder if I’m supposed to grate the inside part too. Or maybe there’s a toxic seed inside and if I grate that part people will get sick and die. Yes, I really do think about those things. But much less often than I used to.
I pull the shriveled, leathery looking thing out of the outer shell and sniff it. Hmm, that actually smells like nutmeg. I run it across the grater a few times and a fine sifting of powder collects on my plate. I taste it and OHMYTHATISWHATNUTMEGISSUPPOSEDTOTASTELIKE exploded in my head.
In my defense, all the instructions for using whole nutmeg say to just grate the entire thing. Even after seeing it with my own eyes, I couldn’t find anything about nutmegs having an inedible shell or needing to crack through an exterior layer before using it. Several questions on culinary message boards asking the same thing about the nutmegs’ shell were answered with, “grate the entire nutmeg.” I started to second guess myself and thought maybe people grate the external shell and the internal nut until I finally found a posting on a message board that said that nutmegs are always purchased shelled in the US, but when buying them overseas they come with the shell on. Mystery solved.
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Directions for the nutmeg impaired: light brown seed = good. Hard outer shell = bad. |
This was further confirmed when I found this article about nutmegs at globalgourmet.com:
There are three layers that surround the nutmeg fruit. The outer layer, known as the pericarp, is used to make nutmeg jelly. The red membrane, which enwraps the shiny dark nutmeg shell, is known as mace, nutmeg’s twin spice, which is eventually dried and ground, and used in a variety of dishes. Inside this shell is a seed—the nutmeg. No part of the nutmeg is ever wasted including the shell, which is used as flower bed mulch and for covering garden plants.
(italics and bold mine)
Great, anyone up for some mulch cookies? I baked and ate them anyway, and nobody noticed that one of the ingredients was actually something normally used as a soil amendment. And now in the future, I know to crack the shell before trying to grate the nutmeg.
I also learned not to crack the shell by pounding on it with a jar of honey.
*Nutmegs really is the plural form of nutmeg, even if it does sound wrong. I think it should stay singular, like “moose.”