adding a little spice to our lives

A fun place to go in Istanbul is the Egyptian Spice Market. It got its name because for a long time that’s where they traded all the spices and things that were brought from Egypt. It was built in 1664 so it has been in business a long time.

Even though it was hot, we decided to walk so we could explore the neighborhood around the market. It was mostly downhill and we promised the boys we would take the train home if they agreed to walk there. They were still protesting about wanting to take the metro instead so we just said, “too bad, we’re walking.”

Lots of people, lots of old buildings and shops, many trinkets, and lots to see . . .

Walking around Istanbul without a plan feels is an adventure. There’s so much to see (like Egypt), but it’s clean (unlike Egypt). We could have explored the city on foot for another week without even beginning to be bored.

Inside the Spice Market looked just like this — if you imagine it going on and on and around the corner and on and on some more. We wandered around for over an hour and it just kept going.

We smelled the different teas, tasted some different spices, and had samples of Turkish Delight. I don’t like Turkish Delight. When reading The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe I thought Turkish Delight had to be some rich creamy chocolate or caramel candy — something that would go well with the steaming hot chocolate that the White Witch served to Edmund. It turns out that Turkish Delight is actually gummy fruit squares with nuts in them. I mean, it’s OK, but it’s hard to imagine that Edmund sold out his family for some nutty fruit leather . . .

At the entrance to the Spice Market there was a place selling soft serve cones. After our long, hot walk, everyone deserved a treat.

I’m making this picture extra-large so you can read the sign right in the center: Turkish Viagra (they are dates stuffed with nuts). If you click on the picture to look at it up close, it says “5 times in the night.” Gross.

At another spice place in central Turkey we were sampling different nuts and fruit combos and I asked the guy what the bright pink stuff was. He said it was concentrated cranberry, “good for the milk” and proceeded to use his fingers to create two jet streams shooting out from his chest. Um, oh-kay then! I thought maybe I had misunderstood what he was doing, so I asked Josh about it on the way home. Yep, that’s exactly what he was doing.

Right outside the Spice Market there was a man who was offering bird food for “tuppence a plate.” It was only 1/2 a lira (30 cents) for a small plate of corn.

Caleb and Carter had fun feeding the pigeons until . . .

this little boy intentionally ran through the flock and made them fly . . .

up to a safe haven — a high ledge on the side of the building. He was only 2 years old and was shrieking with excitement so it was pretty funny.

After spices and pigeons the boys wanted to take the train home, but it was about time for dinner so we went in search of some fish.

The Spice Market is right across the street from the entrance to the Galata Bridge and there are always people fishing from it. Rumor had it that you could buy fresh fish sandwiches right from the dock, so off we went in search of dinner . . . (to be continued).

Your Guide

For the first time in many years, you are going to have to find your way without me. I’m talking about this: the Fall 2011 TV schedule.

Since I’m limited to Netflix streaming of old shows (Firefly and Roswell have been recent favorites), it seems rather torturous to go through and find the best shows that I can’t watch this year. So you’ll have to go on without me.

As far as returning shows that would be at the top of my watch list (in order of when they air in the week)– I just peeked for a second; I couldn’t help it:

How I Met Your Mother (CBS)
NCIS (both regular and LA, but regular is WAY better) (CBS)
Raising Hope (FOX)
Survivor (CBS)
Modern Family (ABC)
Parks and Rec (NBC)
The Office (NBC) (to see what they do post-Michael Scott)
Amazing Race (CBS)
30 Rock would be on this list, but it doesn’t start until mid-season because Tina Fey is pregnant.

I haven’t looked at any of the new shows, but I would certainly recommend checking out Simon Cowell’s new project, The X Factor. Basically AI with a new name. They’re even airing it on Wed night to make it easy for you. Figuring out what else is worthy in the rest of the lineup will be up to you. May the Guide be with you . . .

Mosaics: more than smashed up pieces of pottery

I decided to go back and do the Istanbul posts so there’s some semblance of a timeline to these stories. It would be nice to actually post them in order of when we visited the various places, but I don’t feel like figuring that out right now. You would think I’d be able to tell when we went where based on the time/date stamp on my photos, wouldn’t you? Well, I couldn’t figure out why when I would upload photos at the end of the day that some would appear in a file dated that day and the other half on the previous day. Until I realized that the small camera I use was still set to California time so any photos taken before midnight pacific time (pretty much any morning photos in Turkey) would be dated the day before while the rest would be filed under the correct date. So I’ve been having to go through and figure out if the photos of old architecture and arched ceilings belong with this particular historic site or that particular site. They all start to look the same after a while . . .

Today’s story takes place at Chora Church. Now you probably thought like I did that this place was pronounced “chore-ah” church, huh? In all our travel planning I kept pronouncing it that way in my head only to find out the day we visited that it’s actually pronounced “Korea” church. I don’t know why it’s named like a country in Asia and just because it makes more sense to me, I continue to call it “chor-ah” in my head.

These were the only two photos I got of the outside. I wasn’t really focused on the exterior because the reason the guidebooks tell you to come here is all on the inside.

“Hello, happy family!” is what is what many of the carpet salesmen/restaurant hosts/people selling crap would call out as our big caravan would ramble down the street. Thankfully most of the time it was true.

Something that is pretty nifty: the photo on wikipedia is only a little bit better than mine. Well, theirs is centered, right side up, and has better color, but you can tell we were in the same place . . .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Istanbul_Chora_Church_01.jpg

So “korea” church is famous for its mosaics. This dome is painted, not a mosaic, but still cool. I guessed it was Mary and baby Jesus surrounded by the 12 disciples because anytime you’re in a church and there are 12 people, it’s usually the disciples, but these “people” all have wings and holy halos, so they are probably angels.

Of course there’s a cat. A very friendly cat. Caleb, for all his love of cats was a little nervous about petting it. When we first got to Turkey he wanted to pet all the cats, even the mangy, weepy-eyed, possessed looking ones and I might have said something like, “You can’t pet the cat because if the cat nips at you we’ll have to take you to the hospital in case it has rabies and then you’ll have to get some shots.” I might need to dial that back a bit because he was pretty jumpy and flinchy around it.

Carter was petting it and it was purring and nudging his head against his hand trying to get him to scratch behind its ears.

Here’s what this church is famous for: mosaics of all these different scenes from Jesus’ life. You can see how big they are compared to Josh in the corner of the photo.

Up close. I don’t know what they used for the gold, but it was glittery. It was amazing how the picture was made up of all these little bitty square pieces laid out perfectly.

Close up of the pieces that make up the big picture. This is part of Jesus’ robe from a different mosaic.

The framed marble panels on the wall behind us are made from pieces that were sliced and then opened up side by side to form a mirror image of the grain.

There were mosaics all over the walls and ceilings. I would have liked to see them up close because that is when I was really able to appreciate the detail and the work that went into creating them.

This mosaic was pretty easy to figure out. Jesus’ first miracle where he turns the water into wine.

The ones on the ceilings were much better preserved, but the distance made it difficult to see the detail. I also would have needed a guidebook to tell which scenes they were depicting, but I didn’t mind that much. I pretty much walked around getting a crick in my neck thinking, “ooh, pretty.” That was good enough for me. 

I’ve been run out of my house. Baby girl has been unpredictable lately (really since the day she was born, but her unpredictability has been even more irregular lately). She never has two days in a row that are the same, or even similar, but we think she might be teething right now because she’s not napping (yes, that’s normal for her, but she’s doing an even worse job of it than usual) and she goes from happy to crabby in a flash.

So this afternoon she was walking around, happy, eating, playing with her brothers and then we could tell she was getting tired. She was less steady on her feet and started lying down on the floor and putting her head down on the carpet. Great! Naptime! So what if it’s 4:30? She kind of slept for 20 minutes in the late afternoon yesterday, so maybe she’s getting into a pattern! (14 months later and we’re still looking for patterns. I guess we’re just chronic optimists.)

Josh puts her down for a nap and I go run an errand. I come back around 6pm and of course she didn’t nap long (1/2 hour – 45 minutes according to Josh), but she had been hanging out happily with him on the couch, snuggling and being pleasant. I walk in and she starts arching her back, flopping, screaming and yelling, falling on the floor . . . basically losing her mind. I hold out my arms to her and she won’t even walk over to me, she just flops down on the floor crying even more. Josh picked her up and carried her to me and she arched her back and became a dead weight, but continued to scream while I held her. So I put her down again. After 5 minutes of listening to her wail and roll around on the floor in a major tantrum and listening to Josh laugh and say, “she was totally fine while you were gone.” I decided it was better for all involved if I left again. Of course I don’t have anywhere to go because it’s Ramadan and everything is closed for another hour, but I grabbed my purse and keys (and computer), drank a big glass of water (since there is no drinking allowed in public and being forbidden to drink makes me extra thirsty), and headed out to sit in front of Starbucks until it opens.

At least it’s nice waiting out here because I went to the one by the beach. It hasn’t been hot lately (of course that’s relative for here), only 100 or so and humid instead of 115 and humid. There’s a warm breeze blowing and I have a full battery and a view of the ocean so aside from the fact that my baby cries when I’m around, things are good.

I can hear the call to prayer sounding right now which means I’m only minutes away from a latte. My bruised self esteem would probably rather have a strong drink, but you can’t buy alcohol anywhere for the entire month so I’ll live on the wild side Omani style and go for regular instead of decaf. (Aw, who am I kidding? I’ll always choose coffee over alcohol. No matter what month it is!)

September 1st

I spent my Saturday trying to get the house clean. Yes, it’s Thursday, but that’s our Saturday and we go to church tomorrow even though it’s Friday. Four months later and it still feels strange. No wonder I feel off all the time.

The boys all spent the night at friends’ houses last night so this morning I sent Josh to the pool with the baby and started on the house. It’s been hard to have Lucy gone for so long, especially since everything gets much dirtier here, the house is bigger so it’s a lot more to keep clean, and my biggest trial is that we don’t have a dishwasher. Trial is not the right word, but when I have a house full of hungry humans that eat around the clock, the dirty dishes get out of control quickly. I guess I can be thankful that we have plenty of food to eat and dishes to get dirty, but I’d be even more thankful with a dishwasher to help keep them clean. Especially since the water pressure here is really high and I am incapable of washing dishes by hand without water spraying all over me, the counters and the floors. So dishwashing turns into automatic floor mopping (which it always needs), and then a change of clothes for me (adding to the laundry).

On the bright side, we heard from Lucy last night and she plans to come home September 1st. Happy day! Her grandson is still not gaining much weight, but he is doing OK. He was 3 lbs at birth, then lost weight (down to 2 something) and is now up to 3 lbs, 4 oz. He is still in the hospital until he gets big enough to come home, but I don’t know what the magic number is. I’m sure she’ll be sorry to leave India and come back to us, but she’ll be met here by a very, very, very happy welcoming committee made up of six dedicated fans.