yes, more cats

I’m going to have to start a new category for all the posts that end up being about cats. I wouldn’t consider myself a cat lover, but I end up with lots of funny cat stories because of Caleb. And now Camille.

On our way to lunch we saw a man walking with a herd of cats following him. He pulled out a bag and started feeding them. I guess the love of cats is passed genetically? Camille’s reaction took us all by surprise.

She also started shrieking at the lion statues at one of the museums. Equal opportunity cat thrills.

Hagia Sophia

The first thing I learned is it’s not called “Hag-ee-uh.” Despite the spelling, it’s pronounced “eye-ya” which sounds much nicer. This historical site was once a Christian church and then was turned into a mosque and all the paintings of Mary, Joseph, Jesus and the other people were covered up way back when somebody conquered somebody else. I could look it up for you, but I don’t really care and if you’re related to me, you probably don’t either. If you are interested in more of the history, Wikipedia has tons of it (I’m assuming, I didn’t actually check).

Eventually it was restored and turned into a museum and a bazillion people come and visit it to see the unique meshing of Christian and Muslim faiths. Oh, and I guess it’s super famous because it was the largest roofed building for over a thousand years. Nana told Calvin that the dome collapsed 3 different times and each time they learned from their mistakes and rebuilt it. As we walked in, Calvin looked around nervously and asked, “how long ago did it last collapse?” (it’s been solid for about 1000 years)
I wouldn’t want this huge thing crashing down on me either

Even Camille was impressed by the beautiful architecture and dome

Interesting thing to notice: The fresco of Mary and Jesus is flanked by “Allah” (on the right) and “Mohamed” (on the left)

The place is enormous. Standing on the floor looking up at the dome you feel like an ant. It really is an example of amazing architecture for its time (and for modern time). I have no idea how they constructed it without cranes, lifts, or machinery of any kind.

   
The frescos were all covered up because the Muslim faith doesn’t allow any human or animal forms in their places of worship. That’s why much of their art is Arabic calligraphy. Instead of covering the seraphim (angels) completely, they put gold stars over their faces and left the feathers showing. As part of the restoration they uncovered one of the faces so you can see how they originally looked.

To get to the second floor you climb a switchback tunnel that the emperor used. He would ride in on horseback. Josh is convinced that the people back then must have been mucho short (with tiny horses) to be able to sit upright astride a horse and not hit their heads on the tunnel roof.



People are idiots.
All these amazing historical places have survived for thousands of years and people want to leave their own mark on it. Wonder how long it took R to scratch out “R+ G” in the marble? They probably aren’t even together anymore, yet we’re stuck looking at R’s “art” for the next thousand years . . .

Josh was able to walk around and read all the Arabic art — crazy, huh?

The view from the second floor balcony. The small flower-looking things are actually the giant chandeliers. See how tiny the people look from up above? 
“Enough of the museum, Mom. Let’s go eat.” Camille had had enough too.

a perfect afternoon

Baby girl was tired and Josh was willing to nap along with her so the boys and I headed out in search of lunch today. There is a large green space near our hotel that stretches between the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. There are always people relaxing on the grass, picnicking and playing there. It’s a cross between a college campus and an outdoor concert venue. Since there are loads of people, there plenty of food vendors with lots to choose from.

We started with the corn guy. He sells boiled or roasted corn for 1 TL (60 cents). He pulls it out of the hot water, sprinkles it with salt, and wraps it in a paper. We got 3 of them and moved on to the simit cart. A simet looks like a circular soft pretzel covered with sesame seeds. It tastes a little bit like a bagel and a little bit like a pretzel. The simit guy also sells these bagel-looking breads that we decided to try today. It was as soft and as sweet as those Hawaiian rolls. Mmmm. We bought 1 of each (2TL total) and took our food and sat under a tree near the fountain to eat.

We chatted and people watched and the boys were jealous of all the little boys who walk around selling bottles of cold water and were trying to figure out how they could make some money too. After we finished our food Carter suggested that we get Turkish candy. I don’t know what it’s really called, but there are these guys with circular trays divided in wedges like a big Trivial Pursuit playing piece and each wedge holds a different color of glossy, stretchy sugar. The way they serve it is to take a stick, pull some sugar out one of the wedges with another stick and begin to wrap the sugar around the first stick. After a few wraps they break the string and do it again with another color, until they’ve got a stick covered with spiral swirls of soft, warm, stretchy candy.

  
Carter had tried it the day before, but the other two weren’t with us then, so I gave them 3TL ($1.80) and told them to go buy two. It is so sweet I can’t tell if the different colors are different flavors, but Carter swears that they are.

After candy it was time to walk a little. We walked down a street we hadn’t been down before and I found a cute store with all sorts of knit/crocheted hats in the shapes of animals and felted *everything*. Slippers, jewelry, finger puppets, balls — beautiful things all made of yarn, ribbon, or wool. The boys helped me pick out a knit headband with 3 flowers on it (25TL, $15).

Caleb had been wanting a Kinderegg (chocolate egg with a toy inside) and I knew a place to get them, but Carter thought the shop where we bought ice cream bars the other day had them too, so he led the way.


As we have established, I am not the best with directions so I was happy he seemed to know where he was going. As we got closer I recognized the area and was just about to say, “shouldn’t we go left up this street here?” when Carter stopped right in front of the place. :sigh: At least he seems to have inherited the GPS gene.

Once there, the interest in Kindereggs suddenly disappeared and was replaced by a need for ice cream bars (2 bars, 1TL/60 cents). Since that walk had brought us in range of a Starbucks I wanted to get a coffee frap (8.5TL/$5).

  

Next to Starbucks was a schwarma stand where they have chicken and lamb roasting on a spit and they slice it and roll it in flatbread with lettuce, fried potatoes, and tomatoes. Another food stop — chicken schwarmas to share.

Finally we decided to head back to the hotel and see if everyone was done napping since we had been gone a few hours. One last stop to pick up two Kindereggs (4TL/$2.50) and our mom/son lunch was complete.

Loving Turkey

We’ve been really busy exploring the city and taking pictures of everything we’ve been doing, but I haven’t had time to write about it. Everyone is healthy, the baby is a great traveler, and the Turkish people are so friendly. Josh and I agree that we could live here. We are in Istanbul for one more full day and then we move on to the capital city of Ankara.

I will get some posts together soon, but I’m looking at my photos and all the old buildings look alike so I have to figure out what is what before I start putting the photos with stories. Baby is napping now, the rest of the family went to the Turkish bath, and I’m going to enjoy the silence . . .