skipping over Cairo for now because it seems like this trip is moving along in fast-forward mode (except for those times when Camille is in the back of a taxi or on the train screaming — those moments seem like an eternity).
For the most part we had a good train trip north today, up to the coastal town of Alexandria. Crazy tired because Camille didn’t sleep all day (we hit the pyramids this morning before heading to the train station) and we had to juggle her on the train and then she finally crashed on my back in the cab about 5 minutes from the hotel). Yes, she was in the Ergo, on my back, in a car. With no seat belts I figure having her in the Ergo is safer than in my arms.
So anyway, the most memorable part of the day was when we got off the train and needed to catch a cab to get to the hotel. Two taxi drivers were standing right at the door of the train asking, “Taxi? Taxi?” I shook my head “no” and kept moving because I don’t do cab negotiation. They have meters, but don’t want to use them because they think they can get more from tourists by negotiating a flat rate (price gouging). The white skin is a giveaway every time.
So Josh asks one of the drivers if he has a meter. He says “yes,” so we go with him. Meanwhile the first guy to ask me if I needed a cab throws a major fit when he sees us following the other cab driver. He tries blocking our way, wants to get his hands on one of our suitcases, and is shouting at our taxi driver for the entire walk from the train platform to the street. Like in his face screaming. When he stands in front of the cab so we can’t get in, we start to look around for another option, but all these guys are wanting 50 LE for a ride. Yes, it’s under $10, but when the ride should cost $3, it’s all about principle.
Finally our driver clears the way so we can get in his cab. We’re all loaded up when he says, “Just one minute,” gets out of the car and makes a run right at the guy who has continued to yell what must be ugly things about his wife to get that kind of reaction out of him. A few other drivers run and cut him off, holding him back and pushing him toward our cab. Meanwhile I’m wishing I had my camera out because we’re all looking at each other like this is unreal.
Finally, we get on our way and Josh asks him to turn on the meter. He refuses and says, “No meter.” You have got to be kidding me. He wants 50 LE just like everybody else. Then he and Josh start arguing over the amount in Arabic and Josh says, “No way” so the guy proceeds to put the car in reverse, and back down the street to where we originally started. I grabbed the kids and hopped out (happy to be out of crazy man’s cab) and Josh and about 4 taxi drivers got into a big discussion about what a fare to our hotel should cost (I’m assuming, since it was all in Arabic but I did hear a lot of numbers being thrown around).
This is completely typical in Egypt and knowing how it’s going to turn out I just grab a suitcase and start walking. You have to get outside of the “tourist zone” to rid yourself of the ones looking for easy targets. It’s the reason we never caught a cab in front of our hotel either. About 10 feet away another cab signals for us and Josh asks again about the meter. No meter — 30 LE. Josh is about to let him go (he thinks 20 is fair) when he sees the look on my face and realizes that even on principle, arguing over $1.50 isn’t worth it, especially at the end of a long day.
I’m currently happily tucked in a fabulously comfortable hotel bed, having showered off all the grime of the train. Baby is asleep next to me and Josh and the boys are out scouting for dinner. His instructions are to come home with food that looks clean. I don’t care what it is as long as it doesn’t make me sick.
