I had forgotten how much I love Istanbul. The walking everywhere, easy and inexpensive public transportation, and the variety of people (and animals) strolling the streets. I’m continually surprised to see couples kissing in public since even just holding hands is a relative rarity where we live.
I had also forgotten how friendly and personable the Turkish people are. They are much more similar to Egyptians than to Gulf Arabs. On the one hand it is nice to have people fawn all over our kids and say “Mashalla! (God has blessed you!) and tell us that we have a lovely big family and so many more kids than the other American tourists that they see (I’m sure! It’s expensive to travel with all these little peeps). On the other hand, that same lack of boundaries results in head rubbing (of the kids), cheek pinching and kissing noises (to Camille) and every salesman on the street trying to be your best friend so they can sell you carpets/pottery/bus tours/etc. Too much of that and I start to appreciate the reserved polite style of both Bahrainis and Omanis.
Carter, our navigator. Always with a map.
Since we spent a full week in Istanbul 2 years ago we are trying to see a few old favorite sights, but also explore new things that we missed last time. At the top of our list was a ferry trip from the European side of the city (where we are staying) to the Asian side. It’s the only city in the world that is on two continents and when else will we be able to say that we had breakfast in Europe and lunch in Asia?
The ferry ride is only 3 Turkish Lira (TL) each, about $1.50, and takes 20 minutes. We are all wearing jackets and hats or scarves, but the weather is perfect for hiking around the city. Sunny and cold, but not windy. If we weren’t so used to the desert heat we’d be fine in sweatshirts or light jackets like the rest of the locals.
Goodbye Europe!
Hello Asia!
The boys were spotting tons of jellyfish in the water. I didn’t know jellyfish did cold water.
20 minutes of peace
She’s been telling her first joke lately:
“Why do chickens sit on eggs?”
“Because they don’t have any chairs!”
She’ll tell it 100 times and it’s just as funny as the first.
Of course. It had to be done.
Caleb was all, “Wait. We were in Europe, but now we’re in Asia? But that’s an entirely different continent! I don’t get it.”
We had been given a recommendation to a restaurant on the Asian side by a few different people, but weren’t exactly sure where it was. To get there we walked through the fish and fruit and vegetable market section — Weird thing about the Middle East, and apparently Turkey too. Shops of the same type are all grouped together. That sort of makes sense for produce and fish with everyone doing their food shopping from stall to stall, but when it’s a street of all bookstores, or lightbulb shops (seriously), or 15 picture framers in a row you start to wonder how they can be successful when all the competition is right there on the same street.
The fish were still flopping.
Thousands of fish, but no fishy smell
They’re moving!
Yep, I could live here.
We found the place easily and after seeing the beautiful food products on offer right next to restaurant row, I was sure we were in for a great meal. This restaurant is so popular (I think!) that there are 3 locations on the same block. We went to number 2 and ate upstairs overlooking number 1 (above) and 3 (not pictured).
It was another “cafeteria style” place where you start with a variety of salads and then choose hot dishes like stuffed eggplants and peppers, grilled lamb and vegetables (I don’t like lamb, but all the lamb here has tasted like beef so I’m a fan), and I don’t remember what else because I was busy eating it and not taking pictures.
I did take a picture of this incredible apple and pomegranate salad (top left) which was worth the trip all by itself, but the tabouleh and hummus were also perfect.
Hanging out and eating bread
After lunch we found a place to have Turkish coffee (of course!)
And then headed back to Europe
I guess it’s a thing to feed the seagulls since they flocked around and people threw bread at them on both trips.
Photobombing bird!
European shore
On our way back to the hotel we saw this HUGE line of people — thousands of people. I asked someone what it was for and all I caught was “lottery.” I think they’re all standing in line to buy lottery tickets.
One of the landmark mosques that is a familiar part of the European side skyline.
Hike back uphill — we could have taken the metro, but it was fun to explore. This is where we passed bookshop row. Six shops all selling books and stationary goods right next to each other.
Caleb was desperately in search of a restroom (called a Water Closet or WC for short here) the entire walk back so he made up a song “W-C, W-C . . . I really need a W-C!” and variations to that effect that he sang as we walked along the back streets of Istanbul. He always makes me laugh. He finally found his WC when we were almost back to the hotel.
Roasted chestnuts and corn.
They all liked them and these were better (less mealy) than the ones I’ve tried in the past. Maybe everything tastes better in Istanbul.
A quiet dinner outside under heat lamps. With the entire family, but they were driving me crazy so let’s pretend they weren’t there. No we aren’t really burnt orange, but iphone doesn’t like dim lighting.
Tomorrow is touristy day seeing some of the historic sights!
