Happy 5th Birthday Camille! Let’s spend it walking around the Jewish ghetto and feeling sad for all the horrible things that were done to people as part of WWII/the Holocaust. We were trying to schedule this part of our trip around the weather and it turned out that her birthday was going to be good day for walking around outside, so that’s what we did. She already thinks of the trip to Poland and Germany as her “birthday trip” and has put in her request for next year’s birthday trip to be to “Atlantis and Crete.” She has no concept that a normal birthday stateside might just be a trip to Chuck E Cheese and a few extra tokens. She’s in for a rude awakening someday . . .

Krakow is a perfect walking city so we set out in the morning to walk through the old town square and headed south over the river to the Jewish Ghetto. Before the German invasion there was a Jewish area of Krakow, but the Germans moved everyone out of the city to the other side of the river and packed them all in a several block area that they walled off.

A remaining portion of the wall. Before our trip I made the kids read several books about the Jewish experience during WWII. I read The Hiding Place aloud to them, which covered Jews in hiding, the underground resistance, and concentration camps. They also read The Boy on the Wooden Box, a book written by a survivor who worked in Shindler’s Factory when he was only 12. He lived in the ghetto in Krakow with his family and would walk to the factory each morning (as we would do on this day). The final book that I read is I Have Lived A Thousand Years by a girl who was 13 years old when the Germans took over her village in Hungary and she was eventually transferred to Aushwitz, the Plaszgow labor camp (located 2 tram stops away from the ghetto), and Dachau, before finally being liberated by the Americans. (I recommend all 3 books.)
Reading memoirs of individual experiences made everything we saw more personal. I felt like we knew the people we read about so seeing the places where they lived and worked and survived became, “This is where Leon would have gone through the gates,” or “this is where Corrie and her sister slept.”
A study in contrasts.
We found Leon’s house — 1/2 a block down the street from the wall. (The author of The Boy on the Wooden Box.)
Leon and his family lived on the 2nd floor — I wonder who lives here now and if they know the history of these apartments?
Caleb didn’t want to read the book because he kept hearing the title as “The Boy IN the Wooden Box.” Our reading of The Hiding Place traumatized him a bit. Carter really absorbed all the details of the book and kept telling me things like, “Leon’s mom and sister were sent to Auschwitz, but then Schindler went and rescued them.” My non-reader actually got something out of a book!
Heroes Square. Empty chairs representing lives lost. This is the square where they would round Jews up to be deported to various concentration/extermination/labor camps. I warned the kids that they better not sit down in any of the chairs!
Right across the street from the square is the Pharmacy Under the Eagle. At the time that the area was turned into the Jewish Ghetto the families that lived in the area were forced to move out. The owner of the pharmacy was the only Christian to remain. His pharmacy became the headquarters of the resistance where people would go for news, forged papers, and lifesaving treatments (including hair dye so the elderly could appear younger and escape being culled/executed).
Today the building is a museum that honors the work that they did and depicts what life was like for those who lived in the ghetto through photographs, first person narrative audio recordings, and video.
It has a great selection of hands-on materials. The drawers all open to reveal photographs, diary entries, and other replicas of prescriptions, issues of the underground newspaper, or logbooks of confiscated possessions or lists of people.
Inside the pharmacist’s office. They had a short movie clip of him standing in front of his pharmacy, being interviewed after one of the deportations, upset by what he saw.
The various old fashioned telephones offer recordings from different survivors and witnesses. One that I listened to talked about a young man who came into the pharmacy, shook up because the soldiers forced him and some of the other Jews to hang poles. It was only later that I realized what he meant was they were hanging Poles, or Polish people. That put a different spin on things!
Interactive photographs. Slide, spin, enlarge and click on them and information would be revealed about each person. Some were Jews, some were Nazis, some were heroes and some were villains. Caleb kept asking, “Is this one a good guy or a bad guy (or woman)?” Sometimes it was hard to say. There are a lot of shades of gray as people are struggling to survive. One might share the last of his food, but then turn around and rat someone else out to the SS.
It looks peaceful, but they spent much of the time fighting over who was going to control the screen since it would respond to only one touch at a time. I had to explain that it was disgusting to be fighting over who got to pick the person to read about when most of these innocent individuals had died horrible deaths.
After about an hour or so, we had covered most of the information on display. It’s a small place, with a fascinating history and I love how the information was presented in bits and pieces throughout the place. All the individual stories were more memorable to me than a big picture historical summary would have been.
After lunch we walked over to Schindler’s Factory. I didn’t take any photos here, aside from this one, because it was a bit heavy. A majority of the museum is focused on Krakow in World War II, with a small portion focused on Schindler. The photo above was taken in Schindler’s office, where there’s a replica of “his list” on a wall. Carter set out to find Leon’s name (The Boy on the Wooden Box) and found his entire family.
My other favorite part of this museum was a 30 minute movie that they showed of interviews with those who worked in the factory and survived the Holocaust as a result. In one portion they talked to one of the secretaries that told a story about the day that he took a group of employees out to the salt mines. (The mines that we had been to the day before!) It was a good day and a nice time and then he gave them each an envelope and asked them not to open it yet, but that he hoped that someday they would understand. It turned out that each of them had been fired. They were angry and upset and the secretary couldn’t understand why this had happened.
The following day, the Secret Police showed up at the factory with a list of names and as the secretary read down the list, she realized it was the exact same list as those who had been let go the day before. She was able to tell the SS that unfortunately those individuals had all been terminated and she had no knowledge of their whereabouts.
It was a heavy afternoon, but an important experience. I’m glad that my kids got to see these things and talk about them and hear the stories.
A bunny catching the breeze.
After we left Schindler’s Factory, we walked back over the river and to the old Jewish Quarter, where there was a thriving Jewish community before the Germans invaded. Currently there are only about 200 Jews left living there.
We visited a few synagogues
And saw some of the old posters encouraging Jews to come to Palestine after the war was over.
My favorite photo of the day: Josh and his mini-Me trying to decipher the Arabic script in the graffiti in the Jewish Quarter.
A unique birthday for sure!