Yesterday, January 25th, marked the 5th anniversary of the beginning of the end. Police Day. The first day of the Arab Spring in Egypt. We had no idea at that time that we had only a week left before we’d be whisked away back to the United States and all we’d be left with from our time in Egypt would be my blog posts, a pyramid shaped ashtray, and an evacuation story.
After spending over 5 years in the Middle East it’s amazing how those 2 months in Egypt exist in Technicolor. Every time we talk about Cairo we can recall it as if we lived there for years, rather than months. On one hand the city has an intensity, a vibrancy, that is unlike anything in the Gulf, but I think the biggest reason those experiences are bolder in our memories is because they were our firsts. The first time I saw a car driving in reverse on a freeway (on our way from the airport to our flat). The first time I saw a guy texting while riding a donkey. The first time I smelled desert sand mixed with city smog. The first time I ate koshary (and walked past a dead body in the street on our way to the restaurant). The first time we had to dodge pedestrians on a 4 lane turned into 8 highway. The first time drinking chai on a rickety chair inches away from strangers at the next table.
I realized it’s kind of like giving birth to your first child. I can still remember that Calvin weighed 17lbs at his 4 month appointment and 19lbs at 6 months and that his first food was avocado at 7 months, but only because those firsts exist as a comparison to all the experiences to follow. Every subsequent sibling reminds me of Calvin’s firsts — how do they match up? Is this kid bigger? Is this one growing OK? The following experiences all are held up against the standard and then fade into a happy stack on top of it, not needed as a reference point because one already exists. Calvin’s firsts weren’t more special, but they were more significant to me because it’s how I learned what defined “normal” and it formed my expectations for all future Chartier babies.
As we wait for orders I wonder what I will remember about Bahrain. I know when I see a handmade carpet I will flash back to rug flops and chest high piles of carpets and the smell of dust and wool upstairs in the Magic Carpet shop with my bare toes testing the softness of the fibers. Muscat gave me my first shawarma from the gas station near our house — the char of the chicken, the softness of the bread, the garlicky sauce and the creamy sweetness of the avocado “juice.” I might have to dig deeper to find those firsts, but they are in there.
I think Egypt is a Picasso. It is bold, in your face, ugly-beautiful, shocking, but memorable and as you look at it closely you see beauty in the chaos. It’s not for everyone and it generates a strong response of either love or hate. In comparison, Oman is a Monet. Beautiful from the first moment you lay eyes on it, it’s purpose is to be exactly what you see. It’s soothing, relaxing and there is nothing surprising about it except that it continues to be just as lovely every time you look at it, from every angle. Everyone loves it and there’s nothing controversial about it.
I’ve decided Bahrain is a still life, painted by a family friend. It doesn’t seem that exciting at first glance, but once you find out who the artist is and recognize the bowl of fruit and the kitchen table as the place where you sit and chat it takes on new meaning. Then you see that she added her cat in the background right next to the coffee mug that you always choose to drink out of and it’s no longer just a painting of a bowl of fruit, but it tells the story of friendship and shared stories and laughter and it becomes a prized possession. It’s not for everyone, but it’s one of your favorites because you know it well.
I’m thankful that I have so many different paintings to hang on my walls and I’m making room for more. What’s next? I’m really hoping it’s not a Jackson Pollock, but I’m open to almost anything.