Give pee a chance (and more Crete photos)

It’s Wednesday night and I should be at our family Bible study group, but I’m home because Camille won’t stop peeing in her pants. You would think she’d be over it by now, but no. She’s what I call a “functional pee-er.” I don’t think she has accidents, like she can’t hold it in and the pee goes everywhere, like my poor friend Mary-Lou in first grade, but she wets enough so that she doesn’t have to go to the bathroom and then continues along with life in damp clothes. So gross.

I’d already changed her out of wet clothes right before we left to go to our friends’ house. And yesterday was at least twice. It usually only happens at home and barely happened at all on vacation, but this week has been extra awful. So when I noticed she was wet during singing tonight, I figured, “Hey, logical consequences,” and told her we had to go home and change and go to bed. I know everyone says kids “won’t go to kindergarten in diapers,” but I’m seriously doubting it with this one. (Or maybe the saying is they “won’t go to college in diapers,” but how is that encouraging?!)

She was upset about leaving, so maybe that will give her the incentive she needs to get up and go next time. I’ve already had her checked out for a UTI or any other possible medical issue that might be causing this . . . Nope. It’s just the way she is. The more kids I have, the more firmly I fall in the nature over nurture camp. Or maybe I’ve lost my touch the 4th time around . . . I’m waiting for my mom to post how I used to pee while watching Sesame Street because I didn’t want to miss anything. But I don’t think I was still doing that at 4 and a 1/2 mom, huh?

On to times in my life I will want to remember 20 years from now: Beach days on Crete.

I had read about a shack on a beach that was off the beaten path that served incredible home cooked food so we set out to find it. We were in an area called Stavros, a series of beaches which is famous not just for its beauty, but because the end of the movie Zorba the Greek was filmed there. (Since it takes place in Crete, I’ve added it to my list of movies to see eventually.)

Based on a few landmarks and a couple of painted wooden signs we made our way past the main beach and found this secluded cove and the “restaurant.” Tables in the sand, palm frond umbrellas for shade and a camper that serves as the kitchen. I wasn’t sure that good food could come out of a travel trailer, but Trip Advisor rarely fails me so I was game. 
It’s a beautiful beach with a rocky, tide pool edge. 

The famous Zorba cliff — the beach at the base of it is where all the tourists go

The kids looked for sea creatures and hopped from rock to rock while we settled in and ordered lunch.

House wine on the beach. This one was so good that Josh asked where it was from. The owner gets it from someone who makes wine privately, but they found an empty water bottle and poured Josh some to take home with us. We found this kind of hospitality all over Crete. 
I didn’t take photos of the food, but again, I should have. Cretan salad, meatballs with tomato sauce and polenta, a baked spicy feta dip (that Carter kept hoarding), grilled local fish (anchovy type, grilled whole) . . . magic came out of that metal box on the beach. It’s still mystifying how everything we ate was the best thing we ever had. You’ll see that I repeat this theme at every meal. Best ever. All of it. 

Then we grabbed chairs down by the water and watched the kids and read books. 

No waves, but the kids still had fun paddling around

The water looked like diamonds and glass

We walked down the beach and out onto the point (well the boys did and then they ran back to get us) where there was a lagoon on the edge of the ocean, completely walled in by rock. 

2 feet deep — a private bathtub on the Mediterranean 

Then the boys swam back across the bay and Camille and I walked

These two strays followed the kids up and down the beach. They were both so sweet and loved being petted. Look at the clouds moving in — they stayed away while we were at the beach, but moved in later that night. 

Another satisfying day — restful, beautiful, adventurous, and unexpected. 

We ate at home this evening with groceries from the store up the street. While Josh was cooking (I think he did scrambled eggs with feta, sausage and Greek seasoning with a side of yogurt and fruit for dessert) the wind started picking up and we began to see flashes of lightning in the sky. We ate outside under a canopy as the rain started to fall and the lighting and thunder were all the dinner theater we could have asked for. 
The kids were as excited about the rain (or more so) than anything they’d seen or done on our vacation so far. When we only see it twice a year, any rain is special. This rain was spectacular.  

Meele’s take on the storm
view of our night sky

Cinderella, dressed in yella . . .

went upstairs to kiss a fella . . . I’ll take “Elementary school rhymes” for 300, Alex.

Ball night. Number 18 for us. Not our 18th ball, but Josh’s 18th birthday in the Marine Corps. I loved my dress because it had a great story to go along with it. Who finds their ball gown at a garage sale in a pile of clothes next to the live turkeys? 

The sister necklace went perfectly with this dress — Thanks Wendy!!

The food was great — especially the potato leek soup with basil pesto oil. 

Also a highlight? The cheese plate that came as part of the dessert course. Most people were full by then so there was plenty of cheese and grapes for us. A peppered gouda was my favorite. It felt like we were back in Crete eating grapes and cheeses for dinner. 
The waitress saw that we were enjoying it so she kept bringing Josh the untouched platters from the other tables. 
Then we danced along with the live band until my feet gave out and we headed home. And to end a great night on an even better note, we came home to four sleeping kids in a silent house. Only two more birthdays before retirement . . .

Crete, glorious Crete (Souda Bay, Aptera)

The weather keep getting nicer and more beautiful. We arrived to overcast weather and some clouds, but each day has been getting warmer. This morning we got up for a hike in the hills overlooking Souda Bay, the site of ancient ruins, a Turkish fort, and remnants of German occupation during WW2

It was a morning with lots of walking in the sunshine. This is the entrance to the ruins. They did a great job in the restoration process by delineating restored walls from original (with a bold grout line that would zig zag up the various walls). This obviously is all original and contains historical information of what we’d be looking at. I loved travel planning on the go, but it forces me to rely on my memory for blog posts, which isn’t nearly as fun or as exciting as the words spilling out of me every evening after a full day. Normally I would google more about Aptera to refresh my memory, but I’m half dressed for the ball tonight and hoping to get this posted before I leave. I’m ready except for my dress, but it’s a bit too early to put it on so I’m killing time, but not enough time for a history lesson. 

Beautiful headlands with a warm breeze. It felt like a California day.

Tromping around the Aptera ruins. There were cisterns and public baths, old steps and it didn’t matter what we were looking at, it was just nice to be exploring outdoors. 

The entrance to the cisterns

It is so similar to the large cistern in Istanbul with the narrow archways, but without the tourists. 

Leaving the cisterns — Carter was parkouring all over the place. I fear that these structures have lasted hundreds of years, but my kids will be the end of them. 

They believe the cisterns were built to feed the public baths. The baths are a short downslope away — easy to direct water there. 

New entryways support the old walls

a door just her size!

fall wildflowers

The harbor has an island in the middle that is surrounded by turquoise water (because of the shallows)

The Turkish fort perched overlooking the harbor.

The thick band of rocks on the right is part of a huge wall that the Romans built. Layers of history and wartime all converging on this hill. There were also remains of German gun turrets that had been created back in the 1940s with machine gun cutouts. 

The fort — we couldn’t go inside, but it was impressive.

After the morning of hiking and exploring it was time for a relaxing afternoon so we headed to . . . the beach! Surprise, surprise. 
Cinderella is off to the ball, so part 2 will come later . . .

diamond in the rough

Josh is home and today was our last Saturday before another sports season begins (6 Saturdays of flag football games) so we took a family field trip to the Isa Town market. On the weekends they have a flea market where people sell everything from pirated movies (3 for $2.50) to old shoes to parrots.

Supposedly it’s the place to be at 7am, but the only place to be for me at that time is in my bed, so we headed over there at a more tolerable 10am. We may have missed all the best stuff, but there’s nothing I need that badly.

Ready to shop!

Did I mention they have an entire section dedicated to birds? Happy Thanksgiving, gobble gobble!

These turkeys don’t look so hot . . .

A guy buying chickens — holding them by the feet as he picks them out. 

The kids were drawn to the guy with the parrots and lovebirds — they were trained to perch on their fingers and shoulders and he let them hold them. 

Anyone up for some clothes shopping? Various vendors had piles of clothes laid on the ground waiting to be dug through. This is not the way I like to shop. I pulled a few pieces out of the piles when a flash of interesting fabric caught my eye, but wasn’t searching seriously until I happened upon a beaded 2 piece gown. It was tied together in a knot so the pieces would stay together. I was intrigued by the shape and the color (and the beads!). I held it up and it looked like it might fit . . . when the guy quoted a price of $4, I had to take it home. 

Guess what I’m wearing to the ball tomorrow night?! It fits like it was made for me. I rushed it over to the dry cleaners and they should have it back tomorrow afternoon. No alterations needed. It’s amazing. Fingers crossed it works out to wear it for the Marine Corps ball . . .

Gritty thoughts

This week brings cooler weather and fall winds. Unfortunately all that moving air stirs up the sand until it looks like our island is covered in a blanket of fog — until I walk outside and have to brush the dust off of my iPhone screen every 5 seconds and wear sunglasses well after dark.

Right now I am walking the track at the boys’ football practice, pushing my way though the haze. It’s only 5:30 but it’s been nighttime-dark since 5:00 because we live on Saudi time. Really. According to our place in the world, we should be an hour ahead like Oman and UAE. When we traveled to Crete we flew 4 hours and were still in the same time zone. We were eating dinner at 7:30 because it was staying light until then. Our sun sets here at 4:30pm. In October. It’s pretty funny to think that we sit in the dark so the Saudis don’t have to change their clocks when they come across the bridge to play. On the flip side the sun comes up at crazy early O’clock in the morning, but that doesn’t help me. Thank God for blackout shades.

As I walk I can hear four or five different calls to prayer all overlapping each other in an a cappella chorus. It’s something I’ll miss when we leave the Middle East. The singing is haunting, reverent, and beautiful all at the same time. I’ve become so used to it as a background sound in daily life that I might only notice it once or twice out of the five times a day. It’s a special call tonight because we are in the period of Ashura, a time when the majority of Bahrainis mourn and remember their martyr, Hussain. 

Now there is sand in my lipgloss and I feel the grit as I purse my lips together, but it’s a small price to pay to be standing where I am. I still wonder at the life I lead and how I got here. At the pieces that fell into place to point us toward Egypt and the revolution that changed the course of our history along with the rest of the Arab world. As I walk I wonder where we’ll go next? Josh is in Abu Dhabi this week living the dream, working with the Emirati military. It’s near the top of places he would like to live in the world. Maybe we could do a trifecta in the Gulf: Oman, Bahrain, and finish it off in UAE?

Inshallah. God knows I couldn’t have planned it up until now. I can’t even imagine what is coming next.