My little Omanis

Omani traditional dress for men is the dishdasha (the white robe) and the kuma (the hat). If you’re an Omani man, that’s what you wear. Everywhere. To dress it up (suit and tie equivalent) there is a scarf that is wrapped around the head and worn over the kuma. To dress it up even further (tuxedo equivalent) there is an overcoat type layer that is worn over the robe. They are sharp looking and perfect for the climate here.

Well, my little dudes wanted dishdashas of their own, so we had them measured for them on our most recent trip to the sook. They put them on right away and had people smiling at them right and left on our way out.

We even had someone stop us and ask to take a picture of the blonde boys in dishdashas. 

They find them so comfortable that they even wore them to play handball outside and then didn’t want to take them off before going to bed. Now they want to know when I’m going to get an abaya . . .

underground city

One of the afternoons in Urgup/Cappadocia, Josh took the boys to the underground city. I didn’t go because 1) it was time for the baby to nap and we had been hiking all morning 2) supposedly the underground city is made up of all these connecting tunnels, some that you have to kneel and crawl through and I didn’t see how that would be feasible with a baby on my back (and that part sounded a little claustrophobia inducing) 3) it looked to be almost an hour away according to the map, which did not sound like a fun drive with a tired, yelly baby.

It turns out that except for the necessary nap for Camille, all the other obstacles weren’t an issue. It was only about 1/2 an hour away and the boys didn’t want to go down any of the really narrow tunnels because they were small and pitch dark, so I wouldn’t have had to worry about squeezing through tunnels with baby. Either way, I enjoyed my quiet afternoon in my cave while the boys went and explored this cave.

From what I remember reading in the guidebook, thousands and thousands of people lived in these underground cities to hide from enemies/religious persecution. I should probably google that to make sure it’s accurate, but I don’t feel like doing that right now. Josh said the craziest thing was that everything was underground, including areas where they would grow food. He couldn’t figure out how you could grow food without sunlight. Maybe they just stored food for the times they were in hiding?


They had access to plenty of grapes. Cappadocia is wine country.

I can’t say a lot of interesting things about these photos, because I didn’t take them and I wasn’t there, but I do know the story behind this one. These underground cities (there are over 100 of them, but 2 or 3 main ones open to the public) are huge with tour groups and while Josh and the boys were there, they heard a tour guide talking about this well and how it provided water for all the thousands of people that used to live underground. He then took out a small pebble or rock and told the group to listen as he reverently dropped it into the well. It fell down, down, down and the group all oohed and ahhed and nodded when they heard the “splash.”

After the tour group left, Josh took the boys over to the well, because he didn’t hear a splash and he tossed a coin in and it clattered and banged all the way down until they heard a “thunk” as it hit the dry bottom. As the boys were telling me this story, they were laughing so hard that they had tears in their eyes at the idea that the tour guide made a big production about hearing water in the well when it was so clearly dry.

Some of those areas are looking pretty narrow to me . . . maybe it was a good thing I didn’t go along.

If you want to read more about Kaymakli from someone who has more information than I do, I found this link that describes what is on each of the 4 levels that are open to the public: http://www.anadol.com/kaymakli.htm or there’s always my friend, wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaymakl%C4%B1_Underground_City

Maybe a table? A millstone? A door?
**Josh let me know that this is stone is actually part of their security system. The stone would be turned on edge, rolled to block the archway in the photo below, and wedged in place to keep intruders from entering. 

The main passages had some light (you can see the wiring running in this picture, but I guess a lot of the passages are completely dark. Josh said the boys started out with the idea of exploring all the side tunnels, but decided it was too dark. In all they saw stables, a church, living areas, kitchens, granaries, wineries, ventilation shafts, everything required to maintain a city, all underground.

Why cookie baking is always an adventure

The recipe calls for 3/4 cup of butter. Hmm, the butter here comes in 500 gram blocks. What is 3/4 of a cup? Isn’t that a stick and a 1/2? How am I supposed to figure out how much butter to add?

eyeball big block of butter. cut off estimated amount. add to mixer with 1 cup sugar. turn on mixer. 

Woah!  as sugar goes flying over the edges of the bowl. The super slow speed here is way faster here than at home. Sweep up sugar. Add molasses. I only need 1/4 cup, that’s about one glug from the jar, right? Better add a second glug to make up for the lost sugar.

Add one egg. Add dry ingredients to wet. I know you’re supposed to mix all the dry ingredients together first, but that dirties up an extra bowl and take an extra step so I just stop the mixer and add all the dry ingredients on top of the wet before turning it on again.

Add 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of baking soda, 1/2 teaspoon of ginger. At home I always add a full teaspoon because I like them extra gingery, but I don’t have any powdered ginger in the house. I do have plenty of fresh ginger. I bet that will work. Get out microplane and ginger root. Grate into bowl. I wonder how much ginger I should add? Taste dough. Try not to freak out about possible salmonella exposure. Needs more ginger.

Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 tsp ground cloves. Look through cupboards. I guess I don’t have any ground cloves in the house. Nutmeg is one of those Thanksgiving-y spices. I’ll add that instead. Grate part of a nutmeg over the mixing bowl. Hope it’s the right amount of the wrong ingredient. 

Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Cinnamon is easy because I never have to measure it. You can never have too much cinnamon. Turn on mixer. Dodge flying flour. Hope you added enough at the beginning to make up for the loss. 

Hmm. The dough looks wetter and less brown than last time. Is that because I was out of white sugar last time and subbed brown? Or because I actually added the full amount of butter instead of cutting it in half like I usually do? Oh well, no turning back now.

Roll balls of dough in sugar. Bake at 375 degrees for 8-10 minutes. My oven here measures the temperature in Celcius. 220 is high so 180 should be close enough, right? Put in oven. Forget what time you started baking them. Hover in front of the oven until they are browned and the tops start cracking. 


The verdict?


They were perfect.

Mother’s Little Helper

Yesterday morning was “sleep in” day. Or at least it was for Josh and me. When we woke up around 7:45 we found Caleb and Camille in our bedroom playing with the train on the floor. Brilliant. Caleb was even dressed in his PE uniform because he thought it was a school day.

When we told Caleb that he didn’t have school since it was “Saturday” and he could go downstairs to have breakfast he said, “Oh! Camille and I already had breakfast.”
Say what now?
“Yeah, Camille woke me up a long time ago. She leaned over the edge of her crib and pulled my hair to wake me up. Then we played for a little while and then we went downstairs and ate yogurt. Then we played downstairs for a while and then we came up here.”

I can just see it now. Caleb staggering from the weight of carrying a baby that weighs half of his body weight, fumbling with the baby gate, blindly walking down two sets of marble stairs, lifting her in and out of the high chair, feeding her . . . any number of things could have gone horribly wrong in that scenario. Add in unsupervised play with a baby that loves to poke at electrical outlets and put things in her mouth and it seems like a miracle that they both came out of it unscathed.

Of course, I didn’t say any of that. “Thanks for being such a good big brother. I bet she loved that. Next time just ask me before you take her downstairs or feed her, OK?”

Caleb has always been one to see a need and act on it. A real do-er. I better make sure he knows that he’s not allowed to give her a bath until she can at least get in and out of the tub by herself.


 

***I’m surprised they didn’t break out the ice shaver and have sno-cones for breakfast