Give pee a chance (and more Crete photos)

It’s Wednesday night and I should be at our family Bible study group, but I’m home because Camille won’t stop peeing in her pants. You would think she’d be over it by now, but no. She’s what I call a “functional pee-er.” I don’t think she has accidents, like she can’t hold it in and the pee goes everywhere, like my poor friend Mary-Lou in first grade, but she wets enough so that she doesn’t have to go to the bathroom and then continues along with life in damp clothes. So gross.

I’d already changed her out of wet clothes right before we left to go to our friends’ house. And yesterday was at least twice. It usually only happens at home and barely happened at all on vacation, but this week has been extra awful. So when I noticed she was wet during singing tonight, I figured, “Hey, logical consequences,” and told her we had to go home and change and go to bed. I know everyone says kids “won’t go to kindergarten in diapers,” but I’m seriously doubting it with this one. (Or maybe the saying is they “won’t go to college in diapers,” but how is that encouraging?!)

She was upset about leaving, so maybe that will give her the incentive she needs to get up and go next time. I’ve already had her checked out for a UTI or any other possible medical issue that might be causing this . . . Nope. It’s just the way she is. The more kids I have, the more firmly I fall in the nature over nurture camp. Or maybe I’ve lost my touch the 4th time around . . . I’m waiting for my mom to post how I used to pee while watching Sesame Street because I didn’t want to miss anything. But I don’t think I was still doing that at 4 and a 1/2 mom, huh?

On to times in my life I will want to remember 20 years from now: Beach days on Crete.

I had read about a shack on a beach that was off the beaten path that served incredible home cooked food so we set out to find it. We were in an area called Stavros, a series of beaches which is famous not just for its beauty, but because the end of the movie Zorba the Greek was filmed there. (Since it takes place in Crete, I’ve added it to my list of movies to see eventually.)

Based on a few landmarks and a couple of painted wooden signs we made our way past the main beach and found this secluded cove and the “restaurant.” Tables in the sand, palm frond umbrellas for shade and a camper that serves as the kitchen. I wasn’t sure that good food could come out of a travel trailer, but Trip Advisor rarely fails me so I was game. 
It’s a beautiful beach with a rocky, tide pool edge. 

The famous Zorba cliff — the beach at the base of it is where all the tourists go

The kids looked for sea creatures and hopped from rock to rock while we settled in and ordered lunch.

House wine on the beach. This one was so good that Josh asked where it was from. The owner gets it from someone who makes wine privately, but they found an empty water bottle and poured Josh some to take home with us. We found this kind of hospitality all over Crete. 
I didn’t take photos of the food, but again, I should have. Cretan salad, meatballs with tomato sauce and polenta, a baked spicy feta dip (that Carter kept hoarding), grilled local fish (anchovy type, grilled whole) . . . magic came out of that metal box on the beach. It’s still mystifying how everything we ate was the best thing we ever had. You’ll see that I repeat this theme at every meal. Best ever. All of it. 

Then we grabbed chairs down by the water and watched the kids and read books. 

No waves, but the kids still had fun paddling around

The water looked like diamonds and glass

We walked down the beach and out onto the point (well the boys did and then they ran back to get us) where there was a lagoon on the edge of the ocean, completely walled in by rock. 

2 feet deep — a private bathtub on the Mediterranean 

Then the boys swam back across the bay and Camille and I walked

These two strays followed the kids up and down the beach. They were both so sweet and loved being petted. Look at the clouds moving in — they stayed away while we were at the beach, but moved in later that night. 

Another satisfying day — restful, beautiful, adventurous, and unexpected. 

We ate at home this evening with groceries from the store up the street. While Josh was cooking (I think he did scrambled eggs with feta, sausage and Greek seasoning with a side of yogurt and fruit for dessert) the wind started picking up and we began to see flashes of lightning in the sky. We ate outside under a canopy as the rain started to fall and the lighting and thunder were all the dinner theater we could have asked for. 
The kids were as excited about the rain (or more so) than anything they’d seen or done on our vacation so far. When we only see it twice a year, any rain is special. This rain was spectacular.  

Meele’s take on the storm
view of our night sky

Crete, glorious Crete (Souda Bay, Aptera)

The weather keep getting nicer and more beautiful. We arrived to overcast weather and some clouds, but each day has been getting warmer. This morning we got up for a hike in the hills overlooking Souda Bay, the site of ancient ruins, a Turkish fort, and remnants of German occupation during WW2

It was a morning with lots of walking in the sunshine. This is the entrance to the ruins. They did a great job in the restoration process by delineating restored walls from original (with a bold grout line that would zig zag up the various walls). This obviously is all original and contains historical information of what we’d be looking at. I loved travel planning on the go, but it forces me to rely on my memory for blog posts, which isn’t nearly as fun or as exciting as the words spilling out of me every evening after a full day. Normally I would google more about Aptera to refresh my memory, but I’m half dressed for the ball tonight and hoping to get this posted before I leave. I’m ready except for my dress, but it’s a bit too early to put it on so I’m killing time, but not enough time for a history lesson. 

Beautiful headlands with a warm breeze. It felt like a California day.

Tromping around the Aptera ruins. There were cisterns and public baths, old steps and it didn’t matter what we were looking at, it was just nice to be exploring outdoors. 

The entrance to the cisterns

It is so similar to the large cistern in Istanbul with the narrow archways, but without the tourists. 

Leaving the cisterns — Carter was parkouring all over the place. I fear that these structures have lasted hundreds of years, but my kids will be the end of them. 

They believe the cisterns were built to feed the public baths. The baths are a short downslope away — easy to direct water there. 

New entryways support the old walls

a door just her size!

fall wildflowers

The harbor has an island in the middle that is surrounded by turquoise water (because of the shallows)

The Turkish fort perched overlooking the harbor.

The thick band of rocks on the right is part of a huge wall that the Romans built. Layers of history and wartime all converging on this hill. There were also remains of German gun turrets that had been created back in the 1940s with machine gun cutouts. 

The fort — we couldn’t go inside, but it was impressive.

After the morning of hiking and exploring it was time for a relaxing afternoon so we headed to . . . the beach! Surprise, surprise. 
Cinderella is off to the ball, so part 2 will come later . . .

turquoise water and pink sand

I had a small list of things that I wanted to see while we were in Crete and on the top of that list is Falassarna Beach, one of the 100 most beautiful beaches in the world (according to CNN). It was about an hour drive from our villa outside Chania so we packed up our swimsuits, sunscreen, and beach towels and headed to the west coast of the island. 
Rolling hills, beautiful countryside, gorgeous skies
The western coast of crete

This blog post is going to have a bazillion photos, but it still won’t show off the beauty of this place adequately. 
Before the kids ran in separate directions I corralled them up to make sure I got at least one shot with all 4 of them in it. 

Top 100 for sure

This warm lagoon was perfect for Camille to play in. 

This time of year the Mediterranean is warm enough to swim in (75 to 77), but not as warm as the Gulf which feels like a bathtub in the middle of summer. 

The kids swam, jumped in the waves, tried to see how far out they could go and still touch the bottom, looked for fish in the crystal clear water, and built sand castles. 

Camille ran back and forth between the shore and her lagoon, jumped the baby waves, and dug in the sand.
I discovered the beauty of the European beaches where you rent an umbrella and 2 lounge chairs for around 5 dollars. A way to lie on the beach but not get sand in every crevice and shade whenever I want it. I read my book all day and took breaks to get my feet wet or walk down the shore or watch Camille dig a hole. It was a perfect day. 

Reading a chapter or two in the water

Her own private swimming pool

When the tide started to come in, the boys (including Josh) all went body surfing. 

The sand along the water’s edge is pink from the red coral that grows in the area. It’s beautiful. 

The edge of the beach is tinged with pink all along this area of the coast. 

I went in the water too, but mostly just up to my waist. I’m a baby about “cold” water.
More bodysurfing

Jumping waves with Daddy
There was a small beach shack type restaurant nearby so we walked over and ordered Gyros. For around $3 each, we ate flatbread stuffed with sliced pork, fried potatoes, and salad with garlic yogurt dressing. I thought beach food was going to be overpriced and not very good, but I was very wrong. Our meal there was as good as any of the excellent restaurants we ate at throughout our trip. 
A little Micah statue at the Gyro place

burying big brother

Carter building a pool for the tiny fish he caught

Camille watching the naked boys running along the shore

Bye, bye Falassarna! We love you!

Definitely top 100
It was our favorite beach of the entire trip. It had the best of it all: gorgeous crystal blue water, pink sand, not too crowded or touristy, a lagoon, and small waves. We’d love to come back and spend a few more days along this coast. 

another day at the beach (October 5 continued)

Going through all of my photos and I still can’t believe how beautiful Crete was/is. I was wishing I could be back there. We did one main thing each day and had plenty of time for relaxing and reading. 
On our drive home from the botanical gardens. People actually live in these towns. Real life. 

I can’t imagine living in this kind of adult Disneyland. 

The village church — I have no words to describe how cute this is. 

Once we got home from our garden exploration and gourmet lunch we walked down to our local beach. This was the first time (of many) that we saw nude sunbathing. The amount of nudity here is shocking coming from a place where some women won’t even show their elbows (or faces!). Kids are completely naked at the beach up til around the age of 7, women go between tops on and topless without a second thought, and men switch their swim trunks for underwear and shorts without retreating to a bathroom for shelter (generally with a towel in their laps for a bit of modesty). 
When I say topless, I don’t mean the American version of topless: lie face down on a beach towel, untie bikini ties and then carefully adjust if needed. The Cretan version: grandma lies back on a beach chair face up, arms crossed behind her head. She sits up and pulls a triangle top out of her bag and puts it on before she strolls across the beach to buy a drink the way we would put on a pair of socks — 1/2 on 1/2 off, mid conversation, tuck in the boob, and off you go. I rather like it. Not because it’s attractive, cause it’s usually not, but because it’s so relaxed. Cellulite hanging out and wrinkled belles are no big deal. 
No one stares here, unlike where we’re from, where everyone stares at everything. I’ve gotten used to that, but it’s nice to feel invisible for a change. I felt a bit like a woman in an abaya on the beach — fully covered in my long pants and sweatshirt while the people behind me were sunning sans clothes (not in this photo, don’t bother zooming in), except it was nice to know that no one cared what anyone was wearing, fully clothed or not. 

It was warmer today than the day before (but still not warm enough for me to swim).

The boys and Josh went for a swim out and across our cove. I’m thankful that they are all strong swimmers and can enjoy the beach without having to worry about them. 

We stayed until sunset and then headed back to our villa where Josh made a dinner of fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, greek yogurt and feta, grapes, and wine. The kids ate dinner inside and Josh and I shared a dinner for two (with a few cats for company) outside on our patio under the olive trees. Paradise. 

The Garden of Eden

One of the best things about being in Crete is driving in Crete — something that can never be said about Bahrain. All of the roads are picturesque and look like they deserve the poetic caption “The Road Less Traveled” or the more modern version, “Everyday is a Winding Road.” 

Our friends had been to Crete back in the spring and they said one place we must visit is the botanical gardens. Considering we’ve had a severe lack of green in our lives over the past few years, we were interested to see what made this garden so special. The road up to the botanical gardens is winding indeed. As we drove up into the hills the road took us on a series of switchbacks like I’ve never seen before. The car GPS looked like a toddler was scribbling out our route. 

We arrived at the gardens and were given bottles of water and had the option of selecting walking sticks to assist with the “hike.”
Of course the 2 younger boys grabbed huge walking sticks. 
The garden path winds along the hillside and overlooks the valley below.

The number of exotic flowers and plants on site were overwhelming. I can’t believe they can grow tropical fruits like loquats and strawberry guava next to apples and grapes. 

Even though it was October there were citrus fruit ripening and other flowers in bloom. It would be even more beautiful in spring and summer. 

who has the bigger stick?

This is called a sausage tree because the fruit turn brown when they are ripe. The boys would read all the signs and find the matching plants. It was charming at first and then all the, “Mom, did you know . . . ?” got to be a bit much. I was wishing the Nanas were there not just because they both love plants, but because they would have chatted tirelessly with the kids. 

A Yucca in bloom. The white spike of flowers grows right out of the middle of the fronds.

It’s 2 kilometers of beautiful paths, packed with never-ending variety

Looking back over the valley — the restaurant/giftshop is perched on the hilltop on the right (red roof).

We saw a few statues — Camille was wondering why she was naked. 

I realized Calvin isn’t in many of these pictures. I think because we kept telling him to walk ahead (we kept telling them ALL to walk ahead) so Josh and I could walk in peace. I guess he was the best at it. 

In addition to wild peacocks and turkeys roaming the grounds they had a donkey, some chickens and a few other animals in pens on the valley floor. 

Look at all the citrus trees in the background. 

then follow the switchback path up the side of the mountain. The way down was through the tropical garden, the way up was all native plants. 

Like this grape arbor, ready to harvest

Caleb didn’t believe me that raisins were actually grapes until I showed him these. 
After our hike we stopped for lunch in the on-site restaurant. We were told this was the highlight of the place and we were not disappointed. Much of what they serve is grown on site and it was fun to spot the varieties of plants we had just seen on our plates. 

A salad of wild greens, cucumbers and a special cretan cheese that is milder and creamier than feta. Not the olives in the bottom right corner that are grown and cured here too. 

More of the cheese and greens. There were greens that we ate that I never would have known were edible. 
I didn’t want to be “that guy” so I didn’t take a photo of our main dishes, though I should have because I can’t remember what we ate, only that there was tons of it and we had leftovers to bring home. I remember smoked pork, rooster and tomato sauce (which is way better than it sounds), this dish that Calvin ordered called “Captain Jack” that we teased him about for the rest of the trip because it was the most expensive thing on the menu (it was good though). I’m sure I ordered something with eggplant. The homemade sourdough bread was warm and puffy and the olive oil on the table was dark and floral. 
At the end of the meal we were stuffed and then they brought out a dessert platter of seasonal fruit picked from the gardens — grapes, orange slices, guava, and pomegranate. We were very impressed. They also served everyone mountain tea with fresh honey to sweeten it to taste. 
We all pushed back from the table and said that we needed to come back here again for another meal before our vacation was over.