The Lost Jerash photos

I was finally able to pull all of my pictures out of “the cloud” and now I can share the other thing we did at Jerash. Not only were we able to explore the Roman ruins for ourselves, but we also had the opportunity to see a show that was about the Roman army, gladiators, and chariots.

Waiting for the show to start. I wasn’t sure how hokey or boring it would be, but we were all pleasantly surprised at how interesting and well done it was.

The narrator explained how the Roman army units functioned, battle strategies, and other interesting details while the guys on the ground demonstrated. They were so realistic that when they started marching and fighting Camille got scared and started crying. 
They trained 7 days a week so they were able to move in unison while in this formation.
Some old sandals
After the demonstration by the Roman “army,” they brought out the gladiators and explained that they would fight, but not always to the death. When one of the men lost it was up to the crowd to decide: thumbs up to let him live, thumbs sideways for him to die. Apparently, they didn’t like killing them too often because they were expensive to maintain and train. 
The last part of the show was a chariot “race” with two chariots and two teams of horses racing several laps around the arena. 
After the show concluded, they boys got to go down and see the horses up close
and go for a very short (but fast!) chariot ride. 

The rest of our time was spent exploring the ruins. These are some of my favorite photos from the newly found set. 
An Egyptian in Jordan . . .

They had bagpipers in the coliseum to show off the acoustics 

There was a circular depression in the center of the floor to mark where the speakers should stand. From that spot we could whisper and hear it projected back at us.

Caleb scootching down the stairs on his butt so he doesn’t fall . . .


Was this a house? A store? Imagining the possibilities . . .

Jerash

The one other place we visited in Jordan was Jerash, a beautifully preserved Roman ruin that is about 45 minutes from Amman. I’m not usually a big fan of historical ruins or big piles of rocks that people flock to see, but Jerash was magical. It was my favorite place in Jordan, even coming in ahead of Petra. 

Part of the magic could have come from the storm clouds that were rolling in and out all day, scattering rain here and there. It made for some beautiful skies against the mostly deserted ruins.
(This photo is of Amman as we were heading out of town.)

Coming up on Jerash. I included this picture because of the air freshener hanging from the rear view mirror. Later in the week Caleb and Carter had such foot funk from wearing their barefoot shoes nonstop that I took the air freshener down and made them rub it all over their feet on the way to Petra. It helped a little bit.

I don’t have a ton to say about Jerash because Calvin was the one with the guidebook and was busy telling us that these supposedly Roman ruins were using the Greek god names for their temples so he wasn’t sure if the guidebook was right . . . meanwhile I didn’t care who built it or what it was called — I was just happy to be there, climbing around the ancient city. And it was an entire city — Jerash is huge. We spent several hours walking around and didn’t see it all.

my attempt at a group photo while walking

Some of the more detailed “bricks” they have found — flowers on top, pomegranates on the bottom.

another giant coliseum
with many steep steps

view from the top of the coliseum — it’s a long way down.

We broke down and bought the boys “fa-lutes” (as Carter calls them). Fantastic cheap comedy. They were made out of pieces of bamboo that were taped together with colored electrical tape.
Fa-luting along
Caleb thought they needed a statue of Liberty

Trying to solve the Greek v Roman puzzle

because of the scattered showers, the boys were finding bunches of huge millipedes — this one was longer than the length of my hand. 
In front of the temple of Diana, watching the storm clouds roll in and feeling the first drops fall. It was so much fun being there in the rain. 

Headed back to Amman and happy to be in a warm, dry car.

Instead of Christmas tree lots, people were visiting the sheep lots to pick out their Eid sheep for slaughter. We passed 3 or 4 different ones along the side of the road on our way back to the city.

I have more photos of Jerash, but they are in the air somewhere as I’m transferring things between my netbook and my MacBook. There’s one more fun thing we did at Jerash, but since I haven’t found those pictures yet, that will have to be another post.  

petra2

Yesterday’s Petra post was interrupted by the sudden realization that it’s almost Thanksgiving, which means it’s time to create my annual photo calendar that we send to the grandparents each Christmas. So I spent all day yesterday poring over pictures from this past year and trying to pick and choose the ones that best represent the last 12 months.

I was completely surprised by all the memories and sadness that surfaced when I opened the files containing our pictures from Egypt. I guess I’m still grieving that somewhere in the back of my mind. And then to see how much Camille has changed from the chubby cheeked infant who slept her way around the pyramids to the lanky toddler who hung off my back as we hiked Petra is somewhat unreal. I also think I look a lot less tired this time last year, but after looking back at all the places we’ve been over the last 12 months, it’s easy to see why.

Anyway, back to Petra. The previous post contained photos from our hike in to the Treasury. That temple-looking thing carved into the wall of rock is what everyone pictures when you say “Petra.” Now made even more recognizable by its appearances in the Indiana Jones (Holy Grail) and Transformers 2 movies. To get to the Treasury you have to walk through a long narrow gorge called the Siq (seek). When I say long, I mean almost a mile. Back when I was in Monterey in Arabic class, one of the students gave a presentation on Petra and when she said that it was a mile in and only accessible on foot or by donkey, I remember thinking, “I could never do that.” Not because of the strenuousness, but the claustrophobicness of being surrounded by rock on all sides. It ended up not being bad at all. Partly because we went in the late afternoon after the tour groups and crowds had died down and partly because Zoloft works.  

 

Once we reached the Treasury (you can’t go inside so we just looked from afar and kept going) there are lots and lots of things carved into the rock. House looking things, cave looking things, temple looking things . . .  great right? Well, it turns out that our boys have been spoiled by our trip to Turkey where there were caves and rock structures that they could climb on and in and around so this orderly way of looking at things without climbing on them sort of cramped their style. They were under the mistaken impression that when we said “hiking” that they’d be able to forge their own trails and scale mountains. Not here at Petra.

“My mom and dad took me to Petra and all I got to do was walk on the boring path!”

There were camels, donkeys, and horses available for hire for those who didn’t want to walk in or out. For $30, I’d have to be *really* tired, especially since some of the running and slipping animals looked a little scary.

There was a temple to see that looked very similar to the Treasury, just located halfway up the side of a mountain, accessible by several sets of stone steps.

The main event for us, once we were inside, was the hike up to the monastery. Everyone says it’s worth the walk, even though the guidebooks warn that it’s 800+ steps straight up. You can hire a donkey to take you up, but I was watching some of those donkeys slipping around on the rough hewn rock steps and I decided I would much rather take my chances on my own two feet.

Stopping for a quick rest — many more stairs to climb! 

It turned out that I was the donkey that day as I carried Camille all the way up the mountain on my back. I should have known by the looks of sympathy and surprise that people cast my way as they encountered us on their way back down that I was in for a long trek. After half an hour I started trying to catch a friendly eye, hoping that someone would put me out of my misery by reporting, “You’re almost there!” No such luck. Over the span of 10 minutes I had 3 different people say, “Only 10 more minutes!” only to have the 4th one say, “15 more minutes to the top!” Good grief.

Actually, finally, almost to the top! It’s beautiful and peaceful and like everyone said, worth the trip. I think it was about 45 minutes up, but I didn’t keep track. Carter reported that there were only 643 steps, but he only counted the actual steps, not the stretches of inclined slope.

So I get to the top and think, “hmm, not too exciting. It looks kind of like a campground.” Until I look to my right and see this huge thing:

See two of the boys right at the opening? It’s that big. 

It was the perfect time of day to see it. As the sun was setting it was the only thing illuminated while everything else had moved into the shadows. 

Josh boosted the boys up and they were able to climb around inside. 

Worth the trip!

The sun went down and it started to get chilly so we headed back down the mountain. 
The 643/800+ steps were much easier going the other direction.