We’ve arrived

I came home in time for the sandstorm, spring break and Easter weekend. It’s been crazy since we got back. Three days later and the dust is still settling on all the surfaces inside our house.

When we headed to Paris we caught a late flight and landed around 6:30am. The Parisians were incredibly pleasant and civilized in their visa/customs process. They not only had fully staffed counters, but other staff at key places directing passengers to the shortest lines. Way different than the every man for himself, Allah doesn’t care if you wait in a long line experience we had last month in Oman.

We grabbed our bags (Just a backpack for each of us) and headed for the train station (connected to the airport). We had to buy tickets from an agent because our US cards don’t have the chip/pin technology that the Europeans use. It’s not an issue in stores, where they can be swiped as normal, but they don’t work in transit machines that only read the embedded chips. No big deal, it gave Josh a chance to practice his French. He doesn’t speak French, but he is a natural with languages. There was a college aged girl in front of us who asked us for help with buying train tickets because the agent didn’t speak any English. Josh whipped out “blah de dah deaux billets un Paris” or something like that and she was on her way. I asked him how he knew what to say and he said he saw the word for ticket was “billet” and the rest was easy. Okaaay. I’d be holding up 2 fingers and asking “Paris?” or “Dos ticketos?” and hoping for the best. I guess after Arabic, all languages that use the English alphabet seem easy.

Riding the rails — about 45 minutes into the city. 

We switched from the train to the Metro system (again, piece of cake) and rode a few more stops to our destination, the Bastille area. As we came aboveground we were greeted by a misty, gray sky. Wet streets, the smell of rain, and the sound of cars driving through puddles made it a novel paradise. 

Only a few blocks away from our apartment, we took notes of shops to visit and restaurants to try as we walked. 

Raspberries! I bought 2 baskets each day. And several flats of strawberries over the course of the week. 
Strawberries are expensive in the land of sand . . . at $6 each these were probably expensive, but not to us! (and at this point the Euro was almost equal to the dollar so it was nice to be able to shop without having to convert for a change.)

Almost there! Our apartment was located above the restaurant with the blue awning. 

This bar was a few doors down. Each time we walked by, the name would make us laugh. 

The cool entryway to our place. There was a keypad on the street and when we typed in the code, the door would swing open automatically leading to this tunnel-like walkway. It was like something from Narnia or Harry Potter. 

Our apartment looked out on this interior courtyard. It was nice because the windows let in light, but there was zero street noise. 

Up our stairs

and we are home!

The apartment was warm, cozy and comfortable. We had plenty of room,

a small kitchen with a dishwasher, laundry and refrigerator,

and a very comfortable bed. I slept like the dead here — I’d fall asleep for a nap and 3 hours later wonder where the time went. I almost think it might be more comfortable than my bed here at home, but part of that could be that I didn’t have to share it with any little people or animals. 
After dropping our things we decided to go find somewhere to have breakfast and we ate the first of several ham and cheese (jambon and fromage) omelettes with our coffee and pain au chocolat. Then we decided to explore the neighborhood on foot, heading toward the Seine river and Notre Dame. 
Approaching from the smaller island 

I realized that the last time I was in Paris we came at it from the opposite direction so I’d never gotten a good view of the back side. 

I think it’s even more beautiful this time around.

Josh and I wandered through, admiring the stained glass windows (but only took a photo or 2 since they never look as good as in real life). We didn’t stick around wait in the long line to go up to see the gargoyles. We thought we might have time later in the trip, but it turned out that there was never really a good time for us to wait in line when there’s always so much more to see. 

We walked past St. Chapelle (again, too long of a line to wait) and over the bridge to walk the path along the Seine. This view of the Louve shows how huge it is. The bridge in this photo is the famous Love Lock bridge. Too bad what people think is a romantic memory is ruining the bridge. The weight of all the locks is causing it to collapse so the government is cutting them off and replacing the metalwork with plexiglass. Yuck. 

The plywood is a temporary solution so people can’t attach more locks

The protective covering — though some persistent romantics won’t be dissuaded. 

We continued over the bridge, in front of the Louve, and into Tuleries Park. The sun was warm and the recliners in the park were a nice touch. 

A fantastic Day 1 — and we hadn’t even had lunch yet. 

Why French women don’t get fat

We’re home from Paris, but I’m already planning ways to get back there, either for a vacation or for real life. There’s a large Arabic speaking population in Paris, maybe there’s a future job opportunity for Josh? (Not even kidding. I’m all in for post-retirement Paris living.)

Anyway, several people have written best seller diet books over the past few years capitalizing on the idea that French women eat calorie dense foods like brie and croissants and are still rail thin. After spending the past week observing their habits, I have figured out that French women stay thin by doing 3 things:

First, they smoke. That’s got to be good for 10 pounds, at least. And they start young, like High School young. Funny enough as a non-smoker I didn’t have any issues with 2nd hand smoke because there are laws against smoking inside restaurants and public buildings and because the French don’t really walk and smoke (just like they don’t walk and drink coffee). Aside from the guy with the cigar in line at the Eiffel tower (who wasn’t French) and the woman sitting on the bench next to me at St Chapelle, my vacation was smoke free. It would probably be a bit different in warmer weather if we wanted to eat outside, but it’s very nice not having to dodge sidewalk smokers as we walk.

Second, French women don’t eat breakfast. I’m generalizing a lot, but breakfast is a cafe au lait (coffee with steamed milk) and maybe a croissant or a bit of baguette. The “big breakfasts” on the menus were usually just coffee, juice, a pastry and maybe an egg. There were also omelettes on the menu, but they were always accompanied by a salad which makes me think that the French don’t see them as breakfast food. And I never saw anyone with anything more than carbs and coffee in the morning. Meanwhile I had my pain au chocolat (chocolate croissant) and an omelette because I was on a quest to find the best chocolate croissant in Paris and I needed more than sugar to start my day.

ordering lunch for breakfast? Oh well. Yum, yum. French ham and cheese . . .
Third, French women move. They may sit to smoke and drink coffee, but they are in motion the rest of the time. Striding down the street, all business, up stairs and down, hopping on and off the metros, never pausing to rest. You know those flat escalators/moving walkways that they have at airports? In the US generally people stand to the right, letting the walkway do the work and a few motivated people pass on the left. In France, everyone walks the entire time. It was like watching an army of ants on the move. Escalators up and down? Everyone walks. Always in forward motion. In 6 days I saw only one woman standing as she rode the escalator and I’m pretty sure she was American. 
I finally have met my people. Josh always teases me that I walk too fast, like I’m in a race. It felt great to join a tribe of people on the move. Like our own version of the Amazing Race. On a mission to catch the next metro, reach the top of a flight of stairs, or get to the next cafe for a coffee. The French understand that sitting is for relaxing and standing means it’s time to move. An added bonus? People weren’t walking and looking at their phones. One thing at a time. 
I’m not going to take up smoking and I ate my way through Paris, but I did manage to walk more in a week than in the past month. Unfortunately our Middle East lifestyle is pretty sedentary with all the sand, heat, and lack of public transportation, but I can try to move more than I’ve been. Ironically, while I was on vacation, my dog got fat (a combination of steroids and trash eating most likely). I probably should jumpstart my plan to move more by walking with him. Au revoir!

Paris perfection

We’ve been in Paris less than 24 hours, but I already feel like we’ve had the vacation of a lifetime. A full day of walking, biking, relaxing and eating. I want to spend  my time here experiencing it rather than writing about it, but I want to absorb and remember as much as possible. We have 4 more days ahead of us and if they hold a fraction of what we experienced today, they will be days I never want to forget. 

Yes, we’ve been feasting on raspberries and strawberries. 
Happy to have much more ahead of us! 

Today

It’s not every day that someone wakes up and is able to say, “I’m going to Paris today!” Unless you live in France. Then you probably get to say that all the time. But today is my day. Today I’m going to Paris. With Josh. The phone rang last night and when Josh answered it we could tell it was a work call. As he walked outside to conduct his work business in private Carter joked, “Dad’s going to Iraq!” because he knows he’s next in line to accompany me on this trip should anything come up that would prevent Josh from going. No such luck for him. In a few more hours Josh will be on leave and we’ll be on our way to the airport. Inshallah.

Our bags are packed, our maps are downloaded, I have written down the kids’ schedules and taped them to the wall so everyone can keep track of where they are supposed to go, the apartment is waiting for us upon arrival Wed morning and our dinner reservations are booked for the first night. After that, we have a list of things we might like to see and do over the next four days, but no schedule to commit to.

I’m planning on lots of chocolate croissants, cafe cremes (supposedly the French version of a cappuccino), crepes, cheeses, and walking. A little wine tasting, museum viewing, bike riding, picture taking, and conversations with Josh that have nothing to do with our kids or work. We’ll probably still talk about the kids though. It is our largest, most successful joint effort, after all.

For the next 6 days, I’m trading views like this:

and this “Tovoyota”
For views like these!

 Adieu! Au revoir!

paparazzi

I take a lot of pictures of my girlie, though not nearly as many as I used to. She’s not always a willing model so sometimes I have to sneak them while she’s sleeping.
(She insisted she wasn’t tired right before we got in the car . . .)

She’s also not changing nearly as fast — she’s looking more like a little girl and less like a baby. 

She’s still a wild sleeper. I usually find her in various stages of hanging off the bed or propped up on her elbows, still snoozing away. 

Pretty soon she’ll trade in the ukulele for an actual school backpack. 

Another night, another pose. Propped up on the “princess bed” (our name for the swooping recliner in my bedroom) and half in the dog bed. 

Readjusted, but still sleeping

She finished her soccer season with a smile and a trophy

I started feeling like the time was drawing short for us to spend our days together (only 5 months until August!) so I took her on a mom/girlie date to see Cinderella. While waiting for the movie to start we stopped at Paul’s for a cappuccino and a croissant. I explained to her that when her daddy and I go to Paris next week this is what it will look like (meaning baskets of pastries, coffee, French decor) and she, looking over my shoulder into the interior of the mall, asked, “So there will be palm trees in Paris?” Um, not quite. 

The movie was perfect. All theaters should be VIP and have couch seating. We should bring pillows and blankets next time too. 

The movie was perfect (though a bit long to sit through when combined with 20 million previews!)

Filling out her own March Madness bracket like a big girl this year. She told me that since she was picking Ole Miss, I could have Arizona. I told her that she was very sweet to share, but we could pick the same ones and it would be OK. (I still took Arizona though.) 
I’d read off the 2 team names and she would pick one. She was quick with her choices and must have had some kind of system, but I couldn’t figure it out. 

At the souk today the guy at my favorite Turkish lamp shop gave her one of the jingly belly dancing skirts. She wrapped it around her neck like a scarf and it jingled while she walked. 

I told the friends that we were with today that Josh and I joke about her going back to the US and being shocked that in real life people don’t give you gifts because you smile and are cute. She’s not going to know what it’s like to blend in with her surroundings. 

Because on the streets of the Middle East, she is VIP all the way. 
I was looking at a top in a storefront while she was perched nearby on the post and I turned around to see this group of guys all taking photos with her. She is used to it and is a very good sport. Usually the old men and women rub her hair and kiss her cheek, but it’s been a while since she’s been stopped for a photo op. It’s not skeevy, it’s just a thing. A novelty. 

They all took turns posing with her and taking photos of each other.

My sweet girl. 
My friend who was new to the island was cracking up — it’s something that’s hard to believe if you haven’t seen it.