meanwhile, in India

Good grief, this week is kicking my butt. People who say if you get up early you’ll be tired at night and able to go to sleep earlier, therefore making it easier to get up early, are BIG FAT LIARS. I got up at 5:30 am four days in a row and I was still having to force myself to fall asleep at ll:30pm the past 2 nights. And getting up at 5:30 makes the day SOOO LONG. I felt like I was ready for dinner and it was only 1:30 pm. Ridiculous. This morning I gave up trying to be a mature adult (by staying up and being productive after bringing Calvin to soccer practice) so I fell back to sleep at 6 until 6:30 when my alarm went off (to make sure Caleb was up and getting ready for school). I fell asleep again while Caleb was in the shower and then a third time after he left on the bus. I finally dragged myself out of bed at 8:20 when my alarm went off for the third time so I could make it to work out class by 8:45 (I was a little bit late and I showed up with puffy sleepy eyes. Oh well.) I think I only have 4.5 more months of this. Woo hoo! I hope I survive . . .


Josh comes home from India tomorrow and as far as I can tell, they are having a great time. Josh said Carter is getting along great with all the kids, working hard, and has been an excellent traveling companion. I haven’t had a lot of contact with them, other than a few texts from Josh and my dad and a fun few minutes on FaceTime.

Carter was thrilled to tell me all about how he was at work burning bags of trash and my dad emphasized that in the trash pile they found bags of medical waste from last year’s trip so what does that tell you about how much trash there was to burn!?!? Ugh! Old medical waste. So many diseases. So gross. 
Anyway, they tossed in an empty can of spray paint (to make it pop to try and scare someone) and it exploded, but a few minutes later there was a HUGE explosion that brought everyone running. I guess in one of the bags someone had thrown away unexploded fireworks (who wastes perfectly good fireworks?!) and when they hit the fire they exploded so powerfully it blew cracks in the mortar in-between the bricks in the incinerator wall. So they had to dig through the other bags of trash to make sure there weren’t any other unexploded fireworks. (I hope they weren’t in the same bags as the discarded medical waste.) Of course there were more so Josh had to cut them open before tossing them in the fire. Better them than me . . .
Josh also said that they are having fun, enjoying the food (curry 3 times a day, of course) and that Carter is fitting right in with the kids and the rest of the team. He said it’s crazy how the kids in the home are around the same age, but Carter (our scrawny one) is so much bigger than they are. 
My dad said the work projects this trip (in addition to medical/dental care and trash burning) are putting in a garden — these are two of the team volunteers busy planting. Josh said I would like it there because there’s a lot of outdoor space and gardening possibilities. 
And building a playground at the local school where the kids from the children’s home attend. 

They also brought handmade dresses to give out to the local girls. They may have brought clothes for the boys too, but I know that my mom and some other women were sewing these pillowcase style dresses. The idea is that each dress is one of a kind, just like the children they are given to. 

My dad, next to Josh, said this village is called Snake village because the people who live there are the region’s exterminators — they go in and dig up the nests and kill the cobras so the people (who live in houses with dirt floors) are less at risk. Again, I’m glad tracking and killing cobras is not in my job description. 

Josh said Carter has been going to school with the kids in the afternoon and helping them with their English. Dr. Perry-Adams (Carter’s English teacher last year) would be amazed. (or horrified?) I guess the girls all think Carter is cute which embarrasses him. 

Hopefully I’ll have more to share after being reunited with Josh tomorrow. Carter flies home by himself on Tuesday. I think he’s both nervous and excited. And I know he’s hoping he gets bumped up to 1st Class!

travel planning from scratch

The first step in figuring out our summer plans is researching if it’s even feasible for us to take a family trip somewhere in Europe or if that will break the bank. We also want to go back to Crete in the fall, but maybe I’m being optimistic to think we can afford to do both. Josh was thinking it would be fun to go to England and Ireland and I was ready to start drinking tea and practice eating crumpets until I looked into it and found it’s number one on the list of most expensive tourist destinations in Europe. Nope.

So I thought, “how about we try the opposite of that?” and I googled cheapest countries in Europe. And then I had to get out a map, because I hadn’t heard of a bunch of them. But hey, two of the most beautiful places in the world are ones I had never heard of before we went there: Oman and Cappadocia. It might be worth a shot.

I bought an Eastern European guidebook (on its way from Amazon right now) because I’m not sure how to decide where to go. Slovenia, Hungary, Croatia, Macedonia (that’s a real place?) all mean nothing to me. Italy: I think of pasta and wine country, the Vatican and Venice. France: cafes and the Eiffel tower, Tour de France and fashion. Croatia??? Nothing. Slovenia??? No associations at all. I think it must be cold there because they both sound Russian and just like in Rocky 4 all Russians wear fur coats and hats, right?

I asked a group of friends (online ones who all live overseas) if they had any ideas for a cheap European vacation and my list grew — and I had to reference a map a few more times. Here’s how it breaks down:

Croatia is the most popular destination with 10 recommendations. Budapest got 8 (but that’s a city in Hungary — I know that because it’s not one of these newfangled countries that popped up since I left school). Prague and Slovenia got 6 recommendations each. Though many people noted that Prague isn’t as cheap as it used to be. There were several for Poland, 2 for Romania and 5 for Malta (yes, I had to get out the map to see where Malta was — it’s an island in-between Italy’s boot and the northern coast of the African continent). It’s a pretty well traveled group of military wives! There were other suggestions, but they overlapped with locations that I hope to see on a different trip (Italy and Spain). There were also suggestions to visit one of the bases in southern Germany for inexpensive outdoor fun. I’m keeping that in mind as a plan B.

So armed with my list, I now need to look up these countries (or cities), see where they are, what makes them special, discover why someone would want to go there, and determine general prices for food, lodging and transportation. Thank God for the internet, Trip Advisor, and Google street view. I don’t know how anyone traveled internationally before this century. Between reviews for hotels, apartments and restaurants I can have a great idea of what to expect once we arrive. I can even look up a hotel and using Google street view, “walk” around the area to see if there are restaurants, bike rentals, or grocery stores in the immediate area. I guess the next step will be “virtual travel.”

We may not end up going anywhere new this summer, but I can promise I’ll know a lot more about Eastern Europe after travel planning for this region!

Say hello, wave goodbye

First a cultural curiosity. I put this shirt on today and felt naked. Yep, the grandmotherly boatneck top has now become too revealing for me. At this rate by the time I get back to America I’ll probably have advanced to covering everything but my wrists and face. 

I ended up throwing on this scarf as a easy, skin covering solution. 
Oh well. When in the Middle East . . . 
For New Year’s Day we attempted to go to our favorite restaurant for fabulous salads and soups in bread bowls, but it was swarming with people who all had the same brilliant idea. So we snapped a photo in front of the gorgeous Christmas tree and then walked around the corner to another favorite place for burgers, fries and milkshakes. 

 Carter and Josh left for India on Friday morning. Josh is spending a week and Carter is spending 11 days working at an orphanage in a village south of Chennai. I think they are going to have a great time. As a Marine, Josh is used to roughing it (they had to pack their own toilet paper, flashlights, bedding, clothesline, and laundry soap. I’m also pretty sure I read something about “bucket showers”) and Carter is always game for an adventure. Let’s just say that I’m thankful to be home with my indoor plumbing and wifi. I’ve been there, done that with trips to Mexico and other “rustic” places, but I don’t know anyone who goes to India and doesn’t get a nasty stomach bug so . . . I’m just praying that they are spared from “Delhi Belly” on their trip.

at the airport

Waiting to board
I was at lunch when I got this message from them. At first I thought they were just upgraded to the front row of a standard, short-leg plane (where first few rows of seats may be a bit wider, but no other special treatment), but they Facetimed me and were all settled in their prime seats while the other passengers were being funneled to the back of the plane. Carter was glowing and on a traveler’s high. I have no idea why they got upgraded because Josh had checked them in the night before and they were in the back of the plane, but I’m glad they got a bit of luxury before moving to the land of bucket showers and limited electricity. 
A little more than 12 hours later I was headed to the airport myself to pick up Calvin from his week in Austria. 3am and he was on his own high, talking my ear off all the way home about all the fabulous friends he had made, how they were like brothers, weird teenage boy pranks, snow, fireworks on New Year’s Eve . . . I’m not sure what he all covered because it was 3am and I was kind of in a fog. He’s already hoping to go again next year. (Yep, I told him so — he didn’t want to go and I said we were making him go because we knew how much he would enjoy it. And that he would thank me for it later. Check and check.) 
The house is pretty quiet with various people coming and going. One kid missing really changes things around here. Only one more day of vacation before school starts and Varsity soccer begins. 5 days a week of 5:45am practices. I’m feeling the pain already . . . 

It’s the most wonderful time of the year

New Year’s, new beginnings, new possibilities. A blank slate. I used to get nostalgic on New Year’s Eve and always try to imagine where I would be a year from that moment. Over time I gave up on that impossibility and now I just sit back and enjoy the ride on the roller coaster. Last year we were in Istanbul, walking misty streets, waiting for the fireworks to explode on the rooftops all around us. This year I’m going to curl up on my couch with my in-progress sweater and hopefully knit past the shoulders to the part where I divide for the sleeves. Two completely different ways to celebrate, but equally sweet.

last year

this year — just as good, right? 

It’s easy for me to be content when I’m warm, well fed, have healthy kids, and an easy life. When there are travels on the near horizon and a new career for Josh on the far one. A year from now we’ll be waiting to hear where our last move will be with the Marine Corps. And maybe we’ll be traveling. One year on, one year off . . . our last Christmas vacation in Bahrain. A trip to New Zealand is on everyone’s wish list (except for the part where it takes so long to get there). We’ll see what ends up coming together. Maybe I’ll finally make it to Italy.

We have lots of travel on the agenda for 2015 — so far Oman and Paris for me, Josh will also get to a few other countries for work, and Calvin is practically living in Germany this spring (he’s there now and has trips scheduled for the end of January and the end of February with school). We’re hoping for a return trip to Crete this fall and are considering a location in Europe for a summer trip instead of traveling all the way back to the US in June or July. Since Josh only has 2 weeks, 20 to 24 hours of transit on each end are making us reconsider our California trip. We love you all, but can’t help feeling that our time in this region is getting short and don’t want to miss any possibilities to show our kids the world.

Calvin is spending this week at Winter Camp in Austria with his youth group. (This kid has more stamps in his passport than I do!) They flew in to Munich and took the train to Innsbruck. They are electronics-free at camp so I know that he arrived to snow, but beyond that, no news is great news. 

The rest of the kids have been playing games, rotating between chess and as much electronics as I’ll allow. Carter is packing for his trip to India. He and Josh leave in 2 days to assist with work at an orphanage outside of Chennai. He’s nervous about flying home by himself (Josh is leaving early to return to work), but that kid has great street smarts. As long as no reading is required, he’ll be fine.  
We’ve used Josh’s days off to our advantage — sleeping in, eating great food (usually that Josh has cooked) like smoked ribs and grilled lamb, roasted vegetables with feta and dessert crepes (inspired by our upcoming trip to Paris). Lucky me!
We’ve been to the souk and wandered around, 

found an authentic old Arab door just like the one that lives in our living room,
and tracked down this beautiful mosaic mosque. 
Next week the kids go back to school (except for Carter who might be more excited about missing school than India itself) and the daily crush begins again. I was driving around this vacation thinking how nice it would be if my kids didn’t go to school and I didn’t have to homeschool them either. My vote is for summer vacation all the time (or unschooling. I could totally get behind that). It’s been a good break and a great way to start 2015!

Eating Crow

**The information contained in this blog post may or may not be 100% accurate. It’s what I understand to be true at the moment, but I’ll hopefully continue to learn as I go along. 

I have a new hobby/passion/addiction/whatever you want to call it. I’ve been fighting it for a while, but I’m sunk. I love carpets. I love carpet shopping. I love learning about the different styles, patterns, fibers, dyes, regions, identification . . . everything but the prices. Good grief, handmade carpets are expensive!

I used to be someone who rolled their eyes (internally, no need to be rude) when someone gushed over an “old tabreez that is to die for!” Um, it’s a piece of material that you lay on the floor. Why pay a bunch of money for something that people are going to walk on? Ridiculous. Remember me and the “Who wants an old carpet?! Gross!” story from the souk? I currently have one old carpet that I’m very attached to (and would be thrilled to acquire a few more). Hey, they don’t make them like they used to!

This one is a Beljik, from Afganistan. Made of merino wool (soft and silky feeling). Beljiks are always these deep reds, blacks and navy blues. This photo doesn’t do the rug justice. I think the LED lights from the Christmas tree are washing it out, making the border look hazy and muted. 

This one shows how the white border of the design pops against the red background. The reason the design is so sharp is because there are over 400 knots/square inch of carpet. Yes, they are expensive, but when you think that it takes over a year to make one of these, it works out to pennies/knot. 

I love being able to go into a carpet shop and correctly identify carpets. “This one is beljik, right?” The deep reds and blues are a big tipoff that they are from Afghanistan, but the sharpness of the pattern (or not), the feel of the wool, and the type of fringe help define a Beljik from its lesser quality brothers and sisters. There’s nothing wrong with a lesser quality handmade carpet — you just want to make sure you’re not paying a premium price for something that isn’t. 
I prefer wool on wool carpets or silk on silk (don’t have any of those yet). They make wool or silk on cotton (meaning the wool of the carpet is woven onto a cotton base), but the cotton warp threads can cut into the wool as the carpet is walked on and the carpet won’t hold up as well over time. Mixed fiber rugs are also more difficult to clean. (An important consideration here!)

This is an inexpensive wool/wool handmade carpet called a Kazak. (When I say inexpensive, this one was around $200). These are historically Armenian and come from the region around Azerbaijan (one of the many countries that didn’t exist when I was in High School).  These are pretty easily identified by the lighter colored blues along with the cream, red and navy and the less defined patterns than the Beljiks. I love the design of this rug. Notice how my taste trends toward reds and blues and geometric shapes? These kinds of designs are called “tribals,” as opposed to “city carpets,” which are more realistic in pattern with flowers, smooth lines and less boxy shapes. 
Example of a city carpet — not mine (pretty, but not my style). This is usually what people visualize when they hear the term “Persian carpet.”

You can see the much larger individual knots. Bigger knots aren’t bad, it just naturally creates a less detailed and less labor intensive piece. 

This carpet was our gateway drug. We went to a rug flop saying we weren’t going to spend more than $220 on a rug and came home with this little guy. Now we’re looking at rugs that are 220 BD and exclaiming, “That’s a bargain!”

This rug is my “old one” (60ish years — still a baby in rug years) and it’s from Iran. It was a steal of a deal and I didn’t care what it was called when I heard the price. Now that I’ve made you curious, I’ll tell you — it was under $650 for a 9×12 foot rug. For comparison’s sake, a commercially made Pottery Barn rug of similar size would cost at least twice as much. See what I mean about it being a steal?

Yes, more reds and blues. Still a tribal, but softer shapes. I’d love to know the history and region of this rug because it’s so different than the styles that are currently being made. It’s nice that this one doesn’t have a center medallion because it’s easy to put a table on top of it without blocking the design or worrying about centering the table evenly over the most decorative part. 

Writing this blog post made me curious, so I looked at the underside of the carpet at the label. In addition to Made in Iran, the label says “saroogh,” which according to Google is a city in Iran that is known for producing carpets in the late 19th century in response to the huge demand for Persian carpets from Europe and North America. It’s possible that the design of ours is known as an “American Sarouk” because they created these carpets with the American design esthetic in mind.

Everyone needs a runner, right? We don’t need one in our current house, but I’m thinking ahead. This rug is called a Chobi (choo-bee). It is valued because it is made from hand spun wool (usually with only a drop spindle) and dyed using hand gathered natural dyes. They are the most labor intensive to make because of all the pre-weaving work. This style is really popular right now because the colors are more muted and antique looking. Chobi’s are generally designed with flowers and swirls — they are not tribal. 

It looks like what’s hot at Pottery Barn, doesn’t it?

And our latest find — a Qashqai. This carpet comes from Iran, woven by a nomadic tribal group. This brightly colored tribal is identified by its detail and the inclusion of birds and other animals. 

One of the things I love about handwoven carpets is the way it looks different from different angles. There is always a dark side and a light side. This is the dark side of this carpet. The red is burgundy, the navy almost looks black and the many medallions that dot the body of the carpet are more subdued. 

10 seconds later, viewed from the other side. There really is a huge difference depending on how you look at it. The red is brighter, almost brick colored, the medallions pop, and each little design comes to life. 

Studying all the details of this piece makes me happy — imagining the skill and handiwork it required to create leaves me in awe. 

This was Josh’s birthday present — an unintended carpet purchase. We went on a shopping trip to help a few friends choose carpets (it’s always nice to have another set of eyes) and this is one of the many that they pulled from the stacks. It wasn’t her style, but Josh was drawn to it immediately. I wasn’t sure about all the different colors together, but the more I look at it, the deeper I fall in love. It’s almost like a patchwork quilt, where you see something new every time you look at it. 
The sign of a quality handmade carpet? The back is just as beautiful as the front. 
Between our travels and our carpet buying adventures, we may come back from the Middle East a lot poorer in the wallet, but richer in experience. And carpets can always double as wall art or bedcovers, right?